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A manufacturer string and a unique ID do not provide good protection.
There are USB controller manufacturer's utilities that can imitate the same parameters for other USB stick.
Alex
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There are a variety of USB-based microcontrollers available; evaluation kits can be had for $100 or less. The normal approach for hardware copy protection is to have a key receive a packet of data from the PC, munge the data, and send it back. The PC can then check whether it got what it expects.
The amount of time and effort you spend on the dongle code will depend greatly upon your perceived threat model. Ideally, there would be some algorithm used in your code which (1) did not require a large bandwidth for inputs and outputs; (2) did not require an enormous amount of CPU power to compute; and (3) could not be readily inferred by examining inputs and outputs. A roll-playing game, for example, might put some aspects of a character's AI into the dongle. If the character is supposed to do something special if it enters the room with the golden fiddle, and the code for that behavior is only in the dongle and not in the PC-loaded software, even someone with full source code for the PC software wouldn't be able to "crack" the game to run properly without the dongle.
If there aren't any "useful but obscure" algorithms that can be usefully put into the dongle, security will be much tougher. It wouldn't be hard to write a dongle that takes 8 bytes, encrypts them with some secret DES key, and sends them back, but someone who reverse-engineered the PC-side code could then imitate out the dongle. Using a public-key system like RSA would be better, but even if someone couldn't imitate the dongle the code that requires it could likely be bypassed.
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Hey Everyone,
I was just reading about Killer NIC's[^],
RDMA[^] and TCP/IP Offload Engine Technology[].
And I was thinking, especially about the RDMA which seemed like a very interesting idea, which coupled with the TOE architecture in a modern NIC (although apparently found almost exclusively in servers currently), and my curiosity was genuinely piqued.
And so I thought that I might like to have one of those Killer NICS, or one like it, but my Toshiba Satellite laptop clearly has no PCI Express x2 port. It does, however have an express slots, which with my computer's built in NIC and WiFi cards, I have never considered useful.
So the thought occurred to me that a TOE NIC should exist for the express port, but that would be redundant with the Wireless card it already has, and although I don't know much about the Express Port's bus, doesn't seem like it would provide any significant gain in performance.
Then it occurred to me; there is a notebook DIMM slot.
That's what lead me to the following idea - an expansion device that consists of a Wifi card complete with the TOE architecture for de-obfuscating wireless internet communications, the constant bandwidth consuming synch's, ack's, DNS address resolution frames, etc. etc. that then mates directly with the memory expansion DIMM.
In other words, when my CPU access memory 0xFFFFFF or whatever, which is in the Laptop's expansion DIMM slot, it is literally accessing raw memmory written there by the WiFi transceiver, consisting of the content of web pages that have been requested, and neatly and very efficiently stripped of all the unnecessary (at this stage) TCP/IP and 802.11x garbage. To send frames, the CPU simply WRITES to the memory block.
Isn't it brilliant!
What does everyone else think? What caveats do you foresee?
Thanks everyone, I find this proposition tantalizing.
-The Scientist
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I have a NDIS Driver that is need update install,Frist install,afterward,don`t uninstall and install.NDIS Driver File not update succeeder.Frist install,afterward, uninstall and install. sometimes it is install fail and OS lost IP by restart.why is that?
nothing
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Hi, yesterday one of my UPS which is used more than one year got a problem that its contain a bad smell in the room. I do not know what is the cause of the problem. The computer is working as normal but the physical unit of the UPS is very hot when I touch it. So I decide to turn off the computer and remove this UPS.
Does anyone know what is the cause of the problem that cause my UPS contain a very bad smell like this?
Thank in advance!!!
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I already provide this UPS to the local shop and now they report to me that the problem is cause by the battery. I feel this is not reasonable. Because at the time that its contain its smell, I found the computer is running as normal. If the battery is problem it should be the power is not provide to the computer not properly.
Please advice me if you have any comment.
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Mekong River wrote: Please advice me if you have any comment.
Sorry, but how could I possibly guess what is causing the smell in a piece of hardware in a room thousands of miles away?
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It smell like a chimical thing. I don't know what the exact word that I could said but if I still stay in there, it would be poison. Any idea?
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Mekong River wrote: Any idea?
Sorry, no, you need to consult a local engineer.
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Mekong River wrote: I feel this is not reasonable.
Yes, it's entirely possible the battery is bad. UPS batteries are usually lead/acid devices, same as in a car. Yes, they go bad and have to be replaced.
Without knowing the smell though, it's pretty much impossible for anyone to tell you if it's the battery or the electronics inside the UPS. Either way, you're spending money.
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As an addition to what Dave said.
A broken (shorted) battery CAN break the electronics.
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Hi, one of my client computer could not be power on. When I connect the system unit to the power and turn it on, i found the power is come into my system unit. I also found that the ligh of the hard disk is available after that around 1 mintus the light of the hard disk is turn off but the system is not boot up. The monitor is not display anything. The system unit still has the power but its seem like the hard disk is not running at all.
Could you please let me know what is the cause of the problem? It is cause from the hard disk that is not functioning?
Thank in advance!!
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Mekong River wrote: Could you please let me know what is the cause of the problem? It is cause from the hard disk that is not functioning?
Well we could guess, but it is impossible to diagnose a hardware problem without access to the actual machine. If you don't have the knowledge to find out which component has failed then you should consult an engineer or take it to your local computer shop.
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Does the computer make any beeps after the bios has started?
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No. It didn't alert any sound. Any idea?
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That usually means that the PSU,CPU or the MB is broken.
Other errors are usually alerted by different combinations of beeps. One beep usually means that bios has booted OK.
Note my use of the word usually, there are known exceptions.
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I have takeen this computer to the computer shop and they told me that the problem was the mainboard that is broken. But after I replace mainboard and used it for two days, now i found that there is no electricity come into the System unit. I try to change many power cable but it was not success. Could you please let me know what is the cause of the problem? Is it related to the power supply? Do you know are there any tool that I could test the power supply?
Thank in advance!!!
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Does your PSU have a power switch on the back?
You can turn an ATX power supply on by shorting the green pin of the ATX plug to one of the black ones. You need have a bit of a load on the PSU while doing this though (without it you could damage the PSU); either leave it connected to the PC or have a few case fans attached. If the mobo has failed it won't turn the PSU on when you hit the power switch. It's far more likely that either the PSU has failed, or that the mobo has failed than your power cord is bad.
If the mobo died after two days there's a good chance that your PSU is faulty and killed both boards. You can check voltage levels with an inexpensive multimeter; but would need access to an oscilloscope to measure voltage ripple/startup spikes that a cheap PSU could fry a board with.
3x12=36
2x12=24
1x12=12
0x12=18
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I got a "MS7120 Orbit Omni-Directional Laser Barcode Scanner". I plugged it into my PC. When I scan the bar code in the instruction book, it beeps. My question is, where and how do I get the "output" data from the scanner? Is it written somewhere in a file? I have no idea (never used one before).
Thanks.
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Depends on which interface (and settings) you're using. If it's a keyboard interface you get the barcode as characters typed from a keyboard.
If it's RS232 you can probably use the System.IO.Ports.SerialPort class.
The USB interface can emulate both keyboard and serialport.
So it's quite versatile and up to you how to use it.
But there is no shortcut past reading the documentation. If you don't have it it's avaliable at Honeywells[^] homepage.
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Jörgen Andersson wrote: But there is no shortcut past reading the documentation.
That's what I was afraid of. 
Do you mean, I need to write some code that picks up what the scanner produces from the serial port? Sounds fun.
Thanks.
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Hello guys,
Today i just received the Monitor that i just bought. Now the problem is here the monitor accepts 3 different types of inputs which are DVI , HDMI , and VGA, and in my computer i have the 9800GT which has 2 DVI connections. So i went to my local computer shop and bought a DVI-D to HDMI cable so I can connect the monitor via HDMI to get the best picture possible. Now what happened is when i connected the cable to the monitor no picture was coming up but when used the VGA cable with the DVI extension everything worked. I did some research to try and fix the problem and it resulted that my graphics card accepts DVI-I connections and the wire is DVI-D and these are different as i think. Do you think this is the reason that the monitor didn't work when i connected the cable and do you think there is a transformer that can switch from DVI-I to DVI-D or are there DVI-I to HDMI cables? any help would greatly be appreciated guys.
Regards,
Christian Pace
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DVI-I connectors/cables support both analog and digital inputs. This isn't your problem. What I think is hte issue is that your monitor is set to get input from the analog port not the hdmi port. Depending on your model there should either be a button to switch inputs directly or it's an option in the screen menus; unless you have a very cheap model it's probably the former. The button will cycle between the three inputs in sequence.
The latest nation. Procrastination.
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