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Led Zeppelin, May 1973 at Dallas Memorial Auditorium.
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Grateful Dead concert one hot summer day in 1981 at the Cal Expo fairgrounds in Sacramento Ca. I especially liked the wet T-shirts in back at the free showers. A lot to see.
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Time for an oil change.
This engine wants Full_Synthetic 0W-20
This is the oil I used last time (i.e., Mobil 1)
I welcome...
- Opinions
- Advice
- Suggestions
- [[Referrals / Links]] to other knowledgeable sources
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Buy a bicycle.
I wanna be a eunuchs developer! Pass me a bread knife!
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Too cold.
Bad weather this time of year.
Significant slip and fall Hazard.
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It's available in 0W-20, so it'll be fine.
I don't scrimp on oil changes: I always do them with a filter change at the recommended mileage interval or or earlier. Oil is what keeps wear down, and that extends the life of the engine. Cheap oil is cheap for a reason - and that ain't compatible with long engine life!
"I have no idea what I did, but I'm taking full credit for it." - ThisOldTony
AntiTwitter: @DalekDave is now a follower!
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My old girl is approaching 50. She's got an old B-Series block and I haven't moved her onto multigrade yet. she has a 15W in now, and [I can't remember exactly] a 15 or 20 in the summer.
It's not such a hardship as the oil's normally leaked out before it's time to change
veni bibi saltavi
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The tolerances were lower in those days - particularly in British car and motorcycle manufacturing ... "close enough to get it out of the showroom" would do.
I've had a few "self changing" motorcycles over the years as well! (Mind you, I had one Honda where the gearbox dogs were so worn it changed down when you closed the throttle.)
"I have no idea what I did, but I'm taking full credit for it." - ThisOldTony
AntiTwitter: @DalekDave is now a follower!
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Oil is the cheapest thing you can put into your vehicle.
Did a little mechanic work today.
Put a rear end in a recliner!
JaxCoder.com
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Yeah, right, I've been to Vegas...
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No it isn't. Banana skins. Into the gearbox.
Not that I would ever have done such a thing during my days restoring and selling old cars...
cheers
Chris Maunder
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I lived in Murray, KY for many years and at the time it was the used car capital of the US and my landlords career was cutting odometers. I heard he finally got caught and had to pay a bunch to stay out of prison.
Did a little mechanic work today.
Put a rear end in a recliner!
JaxCoder.com
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Don't cheat on the oil.
Use exactly what the manufacturer specified. Preferrably of a reputable brand.
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The lower number is how viscous it is cold, the higher number is how viscous it is hot. Slight variation in number won't harm your car. If your car is older,you probably want a more generic number anyhow
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Mobil-1 or Valvoline Synthetic, and Wix oil filters. Whatever you do, don't use Fram filters - they suck bigger'n a bucket of ticks.
".45 ACP - because shooting twice is just silly" - JSOP, 2010 ----- You can never have too much ammo - unless you're swimming, or on fire. - JSOP, 2010 ----- When you pry the gun from my cold dead hands, be careful - the barrel will be very hot. - JSOP, 2013
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Mobil also has an oil filter which is matched to that oil.
Would you choose Wix over Mobil for the filter ?
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I've never used a Mobil-1 filter, but Wix is a known quantity. All my car buddies use either Wix or Motorcraft. Since I don't know what kind of car you have, I went with Wix as a recommendation. I have a Ford, and use Motorcraft filters (I buy them by the case).
".45 ACP - because shooting twice is just silly" - JSOP, 2010 ----- You can never have too much ammo - unless you're swimming, or on fire. - JSOP, 2010 ----- When you pry the gun from my cold dead hands, be careful - the barrel will be very hot. - JSOP, 2013
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It comes down to the quality of the oil bypass system in the filter. When you floor the gaspedal, oil filters are spring loaded to bypass when the pressure gets high enough so that the engine isn't starved of oil. Fram oil filters (to be fair, all this information I'm citing is from 25 years ago, but last time I looked at one it was the same) simply have a metal flap that bends and it can end up staying open all the time. The better oil filters have a coil spring mechanism that's more reliable. You can normally tell by the weight of the filter or by looking inside.
Fram filter insides here[^]
Wix (probably under a few brand names) here[^]
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I've always used Mobile 1. Love it.
Just be careful about the change of seasons. If you live somewhere hot you may need more than 0-20W for summer (Our old cars in Australia would run 50W in summer - but those cars had merely heard the term "machining tolerances")
cheers
Chris Maunder
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Mine takes that one as well, is it a Nissan? You can safely go 10,000 km or more maybe even 15,000 km on that oil even though they say 8000 km.
I work for an Oil Analysis laboratory we test used oil for wear metals and oil health.
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Fever905 wrote: is it a Nissan?
Honda
Civic
2017
Can't figure out which engine it is; but I believe it's the one that uses 4.4 Quarts of oil
(Bought it used, worried and hurried)
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Just going through the same thing with a used 2015 CR-V. Honda manual says uses Honda Genuine Motor Oil or
you may also use synthetic motor oil if it is labeled with the API Certification Seal and is the specified viscosity grade. which leads me to believe the Honda oil is synthetic or some type of blend. [Link to Owner's Manual page on Honda's site.]
Lots of people like Mobile 1 synthetic oil if you're looking to use a third party oil manufacturer.
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Go with any full synthetic 0W-20 motor oil. My preference for a non-dealership oil change would be Amsoil Signature Series.
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Back in the 80s I was a backyard mechanic; and prior to my full time career in computers I worked in both the quick lube industry and for Ashland Oil. I actually still am on the books at a local quick lube and work once or twice a month so that I get discounts, and if my coffers get low between contracts I'll do it full time if needed.
Oil: The recommendation for my car is 5w20, which is available in a synthetic blend as well as full synthetic. The best gas mileage I have gotten is via Castrol Edge; and it seems to have the least consumption in my car which is driven about 35000 miles (56000 km). If that is not available I use Valvoline Advanced Full Synthetic.
The better half gets the same routine done on her minivan, which now has 315000 miles on it.
Oil Filter: Needs to get changed. I have no real brand preference, and it is too hard to know who makes what anymore. There are only a handful of manufacturers and it is mosty contract work for the rest. Mazda filters vary by what country you are in. Fram got a pretty bad name when the internet came around, but their mid-grade XtraGuard line is basically the guts of the Honda OEM filters now/
Suggestions: Get to know your car and how well the oil holds up. Just because today's gas (petrol) engines have extended change intervals does not mean it shouldn't be checked. If it is low top it off, and if you can't see the dipstick through the oil change it. Note the miles it takes to be a quart/liter low or for it to be saturated.
Director of Transmogrification Services
Shinobi of Query Language
Master of Yoda Conditional
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Check your owners manuals for what's needed and allowed in your engine and how often to change it. Stick to the mfg's specs for oil grade and specifications, but don't be afraid to pick one of the other grades that are allowed if you have a reason to do so.
For example, I run one of the allowed heavier weight oils in my engine because I want the extra viscosity.
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