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Done this multiple times in the past, but it was also a few years ago - never seen a problem with it picking up the license - but then I only tried it on something like 4 computers.
No need for any third party partition tools unless you are afraid someone with two much time will start using a lot of tools to extract data - partitions can be deleted/created from the Windows 10 installer.
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swampwiz wrote: Since it is so weak, it might go to Goodwill.
You might consider reviving it with a Linux distro. I like Twister OS[^]. It has themes that look and function like Windows from Windows 95 to Windows 10. It also has a DOS emulator and Wine to run Windows apps.
"When you are dead, you won't even know that you are dead. It's a pain only felt by others; same thing when you are stupid."
Ignorant - An individual without knowledge, but is willing to learn.
Stupid - An individual without knowledge and is incapable of learning.
Idiot - An individual without knowledge and allows social media to do the thinking for them.
modified 19-Nov-21 21:01pm.
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I have just remembered that I have install files for Linux & gparted, so I think I will do that and just give it away to a local charity; they probably have a way to get a free Windows license. 
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Don't mess around with individual partitions. Get MS's Win10 ISO download tool, boot from it, and just tell it to nuke all partitions. It'll create those small partitions it needs for boot/recovery, and allocate the rest of it to itself. Then let it install itself.
Then, if you're really paranoid about wiping might still be recoverable after that, run sdelete from SysInternals. This'll wipe any sector that is still marked as unused (even though data from previous files might still be there), so that data effectively gets overwritten with garbage.
For an extra level of paranoia - start the whole thing by running DBAN. The drive will be as clean as can be reasonably expected. Then reinstall Win10, and call it a day.
Or just replace the whole damned drive with one you no longer care about, after wiping it with DBAN (in case that one might ever have contained data you don't want to be recovered). Do whatever you want with the drive you've just removed.
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My experience only goes as far as Windows 7 but I would recommend the same procedure as dandy72 with one remark.
If the computer has a Recovery Partition, use it instead of the ISO since that will automatically install all needed drivers for the system, although it will all be outdated. Afterwards update everything.
I had problems with some missing drivers on some systems when installing from an ISO instead of the Recovery Partition because the hardware was not even listed by the Windows installer and the computer manufacturer would not provide the correct drivers on their website.
The downside of using the Recovery Partition is that you also get all the crapware that the computer manufacturer wanted you to never use but still turn your top of the line computer into a disappointment.
Whichever method you choose, be careful to not remove the Recovery Partition as you might need it in the future.
Best regards to all
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True.
Personally I avoid using recovery partitions for the reason you mention; even though you get the benefit of having the drivers automatically reinstalled, the recovery partition will also bring back the bundled crap like anti-virus trialware.
At one point in time manufacturers bundled recovery discs. Then they stopped doing that, and had an app preinstalled that allowed you to burn your own set of recovery discs. Nowadays it seems like the only option is the recovery partition, which is completely useless if the disk hosting it dies...
What I like to do...and I realize this only applies to systems I own/use regularly and care about...is to keep a folder on my NAS containing the latest of all drivers necessary for all of my systems. Maybe once a year I'll look for updates on the manufacturer's site, update them, and if there's no problem, replace the existing version on my NAS. What this means is that if I need to go to the extreme of blowing away the OS and reinstalling, all the drivers are there, known to be the correct ones, relatively new, and ready to go.
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I no longer depend on Recovery Partitions, as most of the time i would just nuke the partitions in the drive anyway, also i no longer trust the drivers available in manufacturers web sites to install properly in later versions of Windows, so i just extract them using Double Driver and i'm able to simply install whatever version of Windows i fancy and restore most of the drivers shortly after.
"Science fiction is any idea that occurs in the head and doesn’t exist yet, but soon will, and will change everything for everybody, and nothing will ever be the same again." Ray Bradbury
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Yep, for the paranoid DBAN is my goto tool. I use it when I'm donating old computers, wipe it with DBAN and then reinstall the OS.
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So how do I get the installation code?
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If the system already had a version of Windows that was activated, MS stores (on their end) a fingerprint of the hardware that allows you to nuke the system, reinstall Windows, and it'll still recognize the hardware and re-associate it with the key it already knows about.
The details of which have never been fully documented, I believe, but that's the gist of it.
I went through that process a number of times, and I don't believe I was ever asked to re-enter a key under these sorts of circumstances.
If you start changing the hardware at the same time however, then all bets are off.
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Microwave it for 10 minutes
Nothing succeeds like a budgie without teeth.
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https://www.bing.com/search?q=windows+clean+reset
The box on top of the results page gives you a couple pointers.
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I would go to a linux distro. Linux Mint is a favorite for alot of people. Main Page - Linux Mint[^] It works alot like Windows 7 did which is an old favorite.
If you want something alittle mac like. You can try out Garuda. Garuda Linux | Home[^]
Garuda is my current favorite. It does take a more beefy machine. And alittle more linux knowledge. But the rewards are worth it I think.
To err is human to really elephant it up you need a computer
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Since its Windows 10, there is a "fresh start" option that wipes everything from your drive and gives you a clean Windows 10 setup. You can access it by going to:
- Open up the Settings app
- Go to the "Update and Security" section
- Next to the "Recovery" tab
- And finally click on the "Reset this PC" button
Windows will do the rest, wiping everything from the drive and re-installing a fresh copy of Windows 10 with the same license you currently have on it.
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dban FTW
M.D.V. 
If something has a solution... Why do we have to worry about?. If it has no solution... For what reason do we have to worry about?
Help me to understand what I'm saying, and I'll explain it better to you
Rating helpful answers is nice, but saying thanks can be even nicer.
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Hi,
GOT a Certified or legal copy of Win ten in there? If so and if you can get the activation code from the Microsoft label or you know what ever that bunch of char' are... then...
Back when I could see to use DOS I would use SpinRight to completely rehab all hard drives with a deep wipe just in case there was sensitive or compromising crap that a forensics could uncover... Then do a fresh install?
Or take the old drives outside and put in a shallow hole and put in plenty of thermate and burn the drives until atomized?
The second solution is likely to get you in some trouble depending on your neighbors?
..., But seriously, Spin Right was my goto for several reasons. Besides security there is the nice feature of rehabilitating the drives.
Hope this is of use.
blessings
chuck
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I don't see any activation code in the paperwork with the system.
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Hi swampwiz,
Sorry to be so late to reply. Does Microsoft still advise putting a label somewhere on or in the case of the system? I used to put the label under the power supply at the bottom of my personal unit rather than gluing it to the outside. But I'm not playing the game their way. I like some of the other solutions I am reading like switching to a Linux distro or using the built in reset. If you do do the built in reset you can then use one of the free wiping utilities to clean up what is left... Some even clean up under files by moving them from place to place on the physical disk or a good defrag program will let you do that... but it is best to recover a license. Many times you can call in to activate a system and get win ten activated without the original code Or... What is the name of that utility... something advisorDuckDuckGo? Thanks.
Gather detailed system information with Belarc Advisor ... — https://www.techrepublic.com/article/gather-detailed-system-information-with-belarc-advisor/
You may be able to get the license code that way?
I am sorry if I am rambling. Only just got my coffee pressed and really I'm not qualified to do more than pretend to know anything official. Still I suggest a good wiping just in case some pervert was using the system or there is a root kit on one of the system drives.
hope I was some help.
PS... some root kits etc even hide partitions so badly as to render a drive unclean-able without something like spinright doing a low level decontamination or... what is that term? something using professional tools like a forensics lab would use to root out those hidden partitions.
blessings
chuck
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Member 14751866 wrote: I would use SpinRight to completely rehab all hard drives with a deep wipe
SpinRite is all about data recovery, not secure wiping. I'm rather familiar with the software, and I listen to its author's podcast weekly, and I've never heard him mention anything about some wiping feature in his software.
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You are right... dandy72 , I am old and have forgotten so much of what I knew. Spinright used to be able to do a low level format that could root out hidden partitions but not any more... and the Boot Tools I used to use had some other thing for the best wiping practice? I should keep my peace lest I show any more of my ignorance... sorry.
reff: ""The ability to low-level format hard drives was lost back in the early 1990's when disc surfaces began incorporating factory written "embedded servo data". If you have a very old drive that can truly be low-level reformatted, SpinRite v5.0 will do that for you (which all v6.0 owners are welcome to download and run anytime)."" fromGRC | SpinRite 6.0 FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions — https://www.grc.com/sr/faq.htm
I'll learn to keep quiet perhaps when I am dead? LOL
thanks
chuck
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It's been a long, long time I've had to do that...but I can't imagine a low-level format is much significantly secure than a "normal" format, in terms of recoverability...?
If that's the goal, that's still where I recommend DBAN.
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Right... I endorse your first posting about that and fully agree. As far as I can tell there are few tools that can dig out hidden partitions now short of tools for professionals and legal forensics like DOE etc. Being paranoid as I am I like the thermate solution. AKA buying new hard drives all together and ditching the old ones... but that is for me if I am going to use a used system for myself... That said, now there is no clean and secure computer that you did not build yourself from the chip level up. There is no sort of secure? Like being sort of pregnant? Building our computers and vital infrastructure with hardware from a rival country seems like a really bad idea?
but what do I know
In short ignore the old man cringing and wincing in the corner and you are so right.
thanks
chuck
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ACSC ISM provides the following:
Security Control: 0354; Revision: 5; Updated: Sep-18; Applicability: O, P, S, TS
Non-volatile magnetic media is sanitised by booting from separate media to the media being sanitised and then overwriting the media at least once (or three times if pre-2001 or under 15 Gigabytes) in its entirety with a random pattern followed by a read back for verification.
You can boot from a linux boot disk and use DD to achieve that.
How to Wipe Hard Drive Clean Using dd Command in Linux - LookLinux[^]
Or: Security Control: 1067; Revision: 3; Updated: Sep-18; Applicability: O, P, S, TS
The ATA secure erase command is used where available, in addition to using block overwriting software, to ensure the growth defects table (g-list) is overwritten.
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I finally bit the bullet and got the first dose of Moderna Covid vaccine today. I asked the guy how long these vaccines will protect me and he said after the 2nd dose I should be protected for 4-6 months.
What!!??? That's it? 
So, I doubt herd immunity will ever be reached by way of vaccines. It's hard enough to get people to vaccinate but now you want them to do it every 4-6 months? It doesn't feel like it's ever going to happen.
I'm not sure it's even worth me getting the second dose now. If I do get Covid, it's unlikely to be bad.
And he said natural immunities from getting Covid only last 3-4 months. Crazy.
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