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I built mine at home in the alcove in our bedroom. I used a bi-fold door where the main rail is and a conventional pine door for the shelving. I constructed the carcass using 4x2 floor to ceiling. I used half-lap joints and strengthened them with angle plates. The internal division between the shelves and hanging space was done with 15mm MDF, same for the shelves and smaller pieces of pine (maybe 3/4"sq) were used to support the shelves although that was possible overkill as the weight isn't an issue. The outer trim over the carcass was done in 8mm (?) MDF and the visible joins were routed with a round-over bit. The trim around the walls and ceiling was dressed with conventional quarter-round. I assembled the entire thing with self-tapping screws and I didn't need or require any glue. Obviously, I used a filler to cover the countersunk screw heads. Preparation was typical for MDF; base coat and a good quality gloss. Get the best paint and don't use cheap "contracter" types of paint.
The only thing I made a slight boo-boo on was fitting the hinges. I routed the recess direct into the 4x2 carcass and all was well. It was only when I added the external MDF that I realised I should have done the hinges after fitting the MDF and not before. It means you can't open the door 180 degrees, because the MDF limits the opening to about 110 degrees. Still, it works well. The bi-fold doors came with a top rail support which the manufacturer made a mess of as the pivot hole for the "hardware" was about 1/2" too far in.
As for the joints, half-lap works okay but if you opt for a decent wood like oak you might want to use dovetails to make it look nice. I can do hand-cut dovetails but I have a jig and dovetail bits for my router. I didn't need any as all joins are concealed. Oak and the like are lovely to look at but if you do go that way, it's essential to make sure it's been kiln dried and laid properly. Never use green wood, that is, the stuff that's been milled but not dried. Green is fine but you have to be careful to make sure you lay it down like a bottle of wine for a week or two before use and then only in the area where you want to use it.
Tools: I invested in the best quality I could buy. If you buy or want a router don't go for the really heavy ones. For general trim, a laminate-use type of router is fine and a mid-size ia good for most other things. If you fit doors make sure you trim equal amounts from each side and get the absolutely square across the diagonals. A track-saw will do it far superior to a planer. If you buy MDF get the store/yard to cut it for you. Even though it looks like it won't be done right, those industrial grade machines are accurate to 99.9%.
If there is one thing more dangerous than getting between a bear and her cubs it's getting between my wife and her chocolate.
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Also MDF is carcinogenic so if the shop cuts it you do not have the fibres floating around the house.
---------------------------------
Obscurum per obscurius.
Ad astra per alas porci.
Quidquid latine dictum sit, altum videtur .
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That's also a valid point and a reason I work on it outside. I believe another problem is that the dust is also highly flammable when there's enough of it in suspension.
If there is one thing more dangerous than getting between a bear and her cubs it's getting between my wife and her chocolate.
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MDF or MFC? Are you serious? That's like giving your wife a cardboard box.
Spruce isn't that expensive.
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I'd recommend big box store pine. It's an underrated wood because it's inexpensive. It takes finishes of any kind very very well.
MDF is neat stuff and all, but it uses some pretty toxic sh*t as a binding agent.
I can't recommend MFC. It was a bad library as evidenced by the fact that Microsoft never used it themselves. Crapware.
As for joinery: It depends what you're comfortable with. Your best bet is probably pocket-hole joinery (screws that don't show up on the outside.)
Though frankly, if I was doing it I'd probably just screw the damn thing together, make sure the screw holes were counter-sunk, fill them with wood putty afterwards, then stain/paint. Done and done.
I highly recommend lumberjocks.com. Those guys are awesome.
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mikepwilson wrote: I can't recommend MFC. It was a bad library as evidenced by the fact that Microsoft never used it themselves. Crapware.
Totally agree 
Microsoft ... the only place where VARIANT_TRUE != true
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You people shame me. I keep my clothes on exposed racks, with an electronic gizmo to chase the bugs away. 
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Hmmm , there are 2 types of bugs, alive and not so alive... If you are talking about Windows as your guardian you can chase the alive ones only 
Microsoft ... the only place where VARIANT_TRUE != true
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I refuse to regard moth-holes in my woolens as a feature.
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Are you sure it wasn't you that, in a sneaky manner, just convinced your wife that you need all these powertools. 
Because, really, if you need to ask the question you should go back to the shop and buy a flatpack.
But to answer your question: you need wood, I agree with Harold in this matter.
But also a proper drill, wood dowels, wood glue, clamps, a plane, a resaw, a router... but not the least, a design
Oh, and do have a look for Steve Ramsey on Youtube.
Politicians are always realistically manoeuvering for the next election. They are obsolete as fundamental problem-solvers.
Buckminster Fuller
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Jörgen Andersson wrote: Are you sure it wasn't you that, in a sneaky manner, just convinced your wife that you need all these powertools.
:innocentWhistle:
Actually, I need a pocket hole jig and the rest will be precut boards. Simples.
speramus in juniperus
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Have you considered buying an old one of approximately the right size from a second hand or antique store (aka junk store), sanding it off and giving it a once over with Polyurethane varnish?
- I would love to change the world, but they won’t give me the source code.
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Forogar wrote: Have you considered buying an old one [...]
Yes, nothing that suits has been found. One restriction is that it will need [eventually] sliding doors as there's no room for doors to open.
speramus in juniperus
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Nagy Vilmos wrote: With a chocolate.
That reminds me where is this guy?
Do we need to call the police ? 
Microsoft ... the only place where VARIANT_TRUE != true
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Just make sure you build it in the back yard and it's one inch bigger than all the doors of your house.
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MDF looks like shyte. Mainly because it is shyte.
It's fine for things that have to be flat, and that you won't see, but for "visible" surfaces you have to paint it. Real wood generally looks better, and is easier to "blend in" to existing furniture.
But one thing to remember with real wood: it expands and contracts with changes in humidity - and if you don't allow for that it can crack itself apart. MDF and plywood don't do that because they don't have a grain to expand.
You can get some finish quality plywood which can make the main "box" easier to build, then just use real wood for the front (the outer layer is high quality veneer rather than the "any old c@rp" the cheap stuff uses.
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I've looked and pine is about £120 vs MDF at £90. I shall recommend to Mrs Wife that I buy the former as it'll look betterer. I am still umming about the doors though, they should be sliding as there's only a little room, but I want to make it look kewel.
speramus in juniperus
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What you are looking for I bypass doors, they come in many sizes.
David
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Yeah, but implementing I Bypass is a chore; the doors would have to be COM/ATL simple objects, and while you could fit any number of doors you would only be able to build one, globally unique, wardrobe. 
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A lesbian friend of mine is after getting some bedroom furniture built ... doesn't care about the material but no nails ... must be tongue in groove.
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I've use Hrdwood Plywood[^] like this for furniture and had very good luck, fairly easy to work, looks great when painted or stained. The only other thing you will need is some hardwood strips to hide the edges that show.
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Nagy Vilmos wrote: I seem to have agreed to build my wife a wardrobe.
Take the easy way; clear out a room, hang some clothing lines wall-to-wall, call it a walk-in-wardrobe.
Present as luxury.
Bastard Programmer from Hell 
If you can't read my code, try converting it here[^]
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I don't know about MDF, but everyone knows MFC has been completely replaced by XAML.
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Pine wood is cheap and good, it can be easily stained to get any desired effect (Mahogany, for example) and withstand pretty well, I've made some furniture with it and I like it.
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