|
That's also a valid point and a reason I work on it outside. I believe another problem is that the dust is also highly flammable when there's enough of it in suspension.
If there is one thing more dangerous than getting between a bear and her cubs it's getting between my wife and her chocolate.
|
|
|
|
|
MDF or MFC? Are you serious? That's like giving your wife a cardboard box.
Spruce isn't that expensive.
|
|
|
|
|
I'd recommend big box store pine. It's an underrated wood because it's inexpensive. It takes finishes of any kind very very well.
MDF is neat stuff and all, but it uses some pretty toxic sh*t as a binding agent.
I can't recommend MFC. It was a bad library as evidenced by the fact that Microsoft never used it themselves. Crapware.
As for joinery: It depends what you're comfortable with. Your best bet is probably pocket-hole joinery (screws that don't show up on the outside.)
Though frankly, if I was doing it I'd probably just screw the damn thing together, make sure the screw holes were counter-sunk, fill them with wood putty afterwards, then stain/paint. Done and done.
I highly recommend lumberjocks.com. Those guys are awesome.
|
|
|
|
|
mikepwilson wrote: I can't recommend MFC. It was a bad library as evidenced by the fact that Microsoft never used it themselves. Crapware.
Totally agree
Microsoft ... the only place where VARIANT_TRUE != true
|
|
|
|
|
You people shame me. I keep my clothes on exposed racks, with an electronic gizmo to chase the bugs away.
|
|
|
|
|
Hmmm , there are 2 types of bugs, alive and not so alive... If you are talking about Windows as your guardian you can chase the alive ones only
Microsoft ... the only place where VARIANT_TRUE != true
|
|
|
|
|
I refuse to regard moth-holes in my woolens as a feature.
|
|
|
|
|
Are you sure it wasn't you that, in a sneaky manner, just convinced your wife that you need all these powertools.
Because, really, if you need to ask the question you should go back to the shop and buy a flatpack.
But to answer your question: you need wood, I agree with Harold in this matter.
But also a proper drill, wood dowels, wood glue, clamps, a plane, a resaw, a router... but not the least, a design
Oh, and do have a look for Steve Ramsey on Youtube.
Politicians are always realistically manoeuvering for the next election. They are obsolete as fundamental problem-solvers.
Buckminster Fuller
|
|
|
|
|
Jörgen Andersson wrote: Are you sure it wasn't you that, in a sneaky manner, just convinced your wife that you need all these powertools.
:innocentWhistle:
Actually, I need a pocket hole jig and the rest will be precut boards. Simples.
speramus in juniperus
|
|
|
|
|
Have you considered buying an old one of approximately the right size from a second hand or antique store (aka junk store), sanding it off and giving it a once over with Polyurethane varnish?
- I would love to change the world, but they won’t give me the source code.
|
|
|
|
|
Forogar wrote: Have you considered buying an old one [...]
Yes, nothing that suits has been found. One restriction is that it will need [eventually] sliding doors as there's no room for doors to open.
speramus in juniperus
|
|
|
|
|
Nagy Vilmos wrote: With a chocolate. That reminds me where is this guy?
Do we need to call the police ?
Microsoft ... the only place where VARIANT_TRUE != true
|
|
|
|
|
Just make sure you build it in the back yard and it's one inch bigger than all the doors of your house.
|
|
|
|
|
MDF looks like shyte. Mainly because it is shyte.
It's fine for things that have to be flat, and that you won't see, but for "visible" surfaces you have to paint it. Real wood generally looks better, and is easier to "blend in" to existing furniture.
But one thing to remember with real wood: it expands and contracts with changes in humidity - and if you don't allow for that it can crack itself apart. MDF and plywood don't do that because they don't have a grain to expand.
You can get some finish quality plywood which can make the main "box" easier to build, then just use real wood for the front (the outer layer is high quality veneer rather than the "any old c@rp" the cheap stuff uses.
|
|
|
|
|
I've looked and pine is about £120 vs MDF at £90. I shall recommend to Mrs Wife that I buy the former as it'll look betterer. I am still umming about the doors though, they should be sliding as there's only a little room, but I want to make it look kewel.
speramus in juniperus
|
|
|
|
|
What you are looking for I bypass doors, they come in many sizes.
David
|
|
|
|
|
Yeah, but implementing I Bypass is a chore; the doors would have to be COM/ATL simple objects, and while you could fit any number of doors you would only be able to build one, globally unique, wardrobe.
|
|
|
|
|
A lesbian friend of mine is after getting some bedroom furniture built ... doesn't care about the material but no nails ... must be tongue in groove.
|
|
|
|
|
I've use Hrdwood Plywood[^] like this for furniture and had very good luck, fairly easy to work, looks great when painted or stained. The only other thing you will need is some hardwood strips to hide the edges that show.
|
|
|
|
|
Nagy Vilmos wrote: I seem to have agreed to build my wife a wardrobe. Take the easy way; clear out a room, hang some clothing lines wall-to-wall, call it a walk-in-wardrobe.
Present as luxury.
Bastard Programmer from Hell
If you can't read my code, try converting it here[^]
|
|
|
|
|
|
I don't know about MDF, but everyone knows MFC has been completely replaced by XAML.
|
|
|
|
|
Pine wood is cheap and good, it can be easily stained to get any desired effect (Mahogany, for example) and withstand pretty well, I've made some furniture with it and I like it.
|
|
|
|
|
What I discovered after completing my wardrobe (in solid wood) was that the doors felt flimsy.
It was trivial to create the rest of the wardrobe as a sturdy 5 sided box; all those orthogonal intersecting edges create great rigidity.
It's doors I also made that let me down. They need to look and feel robust. Remember those old sitcoms where slamming a door would make the whole set shake?!
So, whatever thickness you make the box out of, I suggest adding an extra 0.5" (12.5 mm) to the thickness of the doors.
|
|
|
|
|
SVN and the apache server stopped talking again.
I fixed this 8 months ago, but I'm in another city now, and I forgot what I did, and I'm going to have to talk them through it.
It was one weird setting in some config file; I think. My brain isn't good enough to keep that level of detail for that time.
Is there a group here on CodeProject for this topic ?
|
|
|
|