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Hi all, Just wanna ask this.. I used Norton Utilities 2005 (Disk Doctor) and it keeps saying my Security Descriptors are not fixed. It tells me to Click the 'Fix Errors' and to enable Surface testing, which I did and restarted the system for it to fix it...
After half an hour plus of waiting, it gets done and when back in windows, using norton disk doctor again, it reports that the security descriptors are still not fixed... Anyone have any ideas..?
Why I did Disk doctor in the first place is my system tend to randomly reboot itself lately? Could this be the cause? thanz all..
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Ever tried chkdsk/scandisk?
Don't try it, just do it!
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Tried it, doesn't work.. read this from symantec's own site but the problem still there... hehe.. any idea what kind of errors this problem may or may not cause... thanz..
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XP does the complete shutdown sequence and at the moment the computer should power down, the hard disk light goes on and remains on even though I don’t hear disk head movement. Using the power switch is no help, the computer remains on unless I unplug it. When I plug it back, the hard disk light goes on again and remains on. The computer starts normally when I hit the power switch.
Any idea?
Thanks
Hugo Migneron
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If it's been doing this since you bought it, my thought would be that the indicator might've been connected to the mobo backwards. ALso in this case the HD light would be going out when in use instead of turning on. Beyond this I'm stumpted.
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dan neely wrote:
If it's been doing this since you bought it
It started doing it a while after the computer was bought, so I guess it cannot be the HD indicator.
Thanks for your reply anyway!
Hugo Migneron
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Yes I did scan for viruses and spywares and there were none. Just out of curiosity though, could a virus/spyware cause such a thing even if XP is closed at this point?
Hugo Migneron
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i think so...
some viruses (not a spyware at this point) can update the bios, or change the sector 0 with their own code to be loaded at the very begining when the hard dirk is read...
however, what happens when you keep the power button of your computer pressed longer than 5 seconds ?
TOXCCT >>> GEII power [toxcct][VisualCalc]
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toxcct wrote:
however, what happens when you keep the power button of your computer pressed longer than 5 seconds ?
It doesn't power down the computer like it is supposed to. The only way to make it stop is to unplug it.
I spent quite some time looking for a solution over the web and didn't find anything related and I don't really see what could cause this. I would guess it's a hardware problem since it is such a low level issue, but I tested the HD in another computer and it is not defective.
I am starting to think that exorcism might be the only solution
Thanks!
Hugo Migneron
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My fist thought was that the HD power light was connected wrongly to the MB but it seems that is not the case. I would check the HD light cable anyway as it looks like there could be a short or something. Normally there are more lights on a case than you need for a christmas tree so i would try connecting one of these to the HD light connectors or swap some over to give you a better idea of where the problem is.
EDIT: Assuming you are happy laying with the insides of your PC
Jon
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I said in my original post that I didn't hear disk head movement. I didn't say that the disk was spinning though. I don't think it's just a question of lights.
jonathan15 wrote:
i would try connecting one of these to the HD light connectors or swap some over to give you a better idea of where the problem is.
I don't really understand how this could help me. I am not too used to hardware problems so maybe you can point out to me what you meant.
Thanks for you help!
Hugo Migneron
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Bought me one of these[^] the other day for AUD$22.10.
Fired it up today for the first time testing a couple power supplies I had in the garage. After seeing that it has a couple of contact points for testing voltages I dug out my brand new, never been used 11 or 12 year old multimeter I bought all those years ago thinking I might need it one day (See ladies, it wasn't a waste of money. I did need it and at a time when no shops were open, so lucky I did buy it back then). Funny thing is when I connected it all up none of the voltages were all that close. The readings were
PSU 1 PSU 2
+3.3V 3.35V 3.36V
+5V 5.22V 5.20V
+12V 11.81V 11.90V Is it normal for voltage to be off by 4% like that.
I used to short pins 13 and 14 or 14 and 15 on the power supply as told by Roger Wright. But a couple of weeks ago I found a machine where the power supply ran for hours when shorted this way with no load. But when connected to the computer sporadically turned itself off or wouldn't start at all. When I heard of this little toy (with built in load) I ran out to get one to throw in my toolkit.
Michael Martin
Australia
"I controlled my laughter and simple said "No,I am very busy,so I can't write any code for you". The moment they heard this all the smiling face turned into a sad looking face and one of them farted. So i had to leave the place as soon as possible."
- Mr.Prakash 24/04/2004
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Yes. The atx standard specifies a 5% variance is allowable.
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dan neely wrote:
Yes. The atx standard specifies a 5% variance is allowable.
Thanks, I didn't know that.
Michael Martin
Australia
"I controlled my laughter and simple said "No,I am very busy,so I can't write any code for you". The moment they heard this all the smiling face turned into a sad looking face and one of them farted. So i had to leave the place as soon as possible."
- Mr.Prakash 24/04/2004
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Neat tool! I've been meaning to build one for years, but have never done so. Your measured voltages are fine for an ATX PSU - the standard specifies a 5% tolerance.
BTW - The shorting trick is only valid for modern ATX supplies which support the MB-controlled enable. If you try it on other styles you may get exciting results.
"...putting all your eggs in one basket along with your bowling ball and gym clothes only gets you scrambled eggs and an extra laundry day... " - Jeffry J. Brickley
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Could also be that your Voltage Meter is not accurate.
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Hello
Are all Pentium III processors support SSE?
Any helpfull references will be Appreciated.
Thank you.
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I think so. SSE is a Katmai (P3) technology.
Don't try it, just do it!
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They do not support SSE3 if that's what you are looking for. They do support SSE though.
8bc7c0ec02c0e404c0cc0680f7018827ebee
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Hello,
I am looking for software that will be compatable with the Sapphire Theatrix 550 Pro TV Tuner/Capture card. From my reading, the software that comes with the card is quite bad.
The features that I would be mainly interested in are a built in TV Guide, program recording, still picture capture, multiple inputs (composite, s-video, TV cable, and FM radio). Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Mitch
My sig:
"And it is a professional faux pas to pay someone else to destroy your computer when you are perfectly capable of destroying it yourself." - Roger Wright
Get Perpendicular! (Hitachi Storage)
My CodeProject Blog
Most recent blog post: April 11
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Welcome fellow sufferer!
I have that problem with my DVB-S card, too....
Don't try it, just do it!
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Hi, I'm wondering if someone can help me.
I have a wired LAN with 5 computers on it ... and I would like to add 2 wireless computers to it (actually 1 computer that only has USB available, and 1 Series 2 TiVo). I'm not sure what hardware I need to do this.
I think I need a "wireless access point" device (instead of a "wireless router" ???)... and I guess 2 "wireless adapters" (???) or something like that? Do you think this is correct?
Also, does anyone have any suggestions for brand and/or models of equipment that would be good? (I have a NETGEAR FS105 for my LAN).
Many thanks for any help!!!
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Yes, you need an Access Point. You'll need a free socket on your hub/switch/gateway/router on the wired LAN to connect it up.
For business use we normally use Symbol or Cisco gear, but that's quite pricey. Netgear, Linksys, D-Link all make cheaper ones. My home network is based around a Linksys WAG54G (version 1), which is a 4-port switch, ADSL router, and 802.11g wireless access point all-in-one.
You can get both wired and wireless USB network adapters. Again, look for 802.11g for the highest standard data rates (up to 54Mbps). For the TiVo, see their list of recommended adapters[^]. You really are restricted to what they support. You might as well get two the same. It shouldn't matter if the AP is from a different manufacturer than the cards, 802.11b and g equipment is now usually compatible.
When you set up your access point, you should change the administrator passwords, change the ESSID (may be called Network ID), turn on the highest compatible encryption setting (prefer WPAv2 to WPA, WPA to WEP - if the device hasn't got at least 128-bit WEP don't buy it), and turn off ESSID broadcasts. I see way too many APs that have seriously weak security or even running the default settings. If you feel really keen you could turn on MAC filtering, which restricts access to only the network adapters you specify.
Stability. What an interesting concept. -- Chris Maunder
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