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Yeah, but you need to buy a dispenser first. And if you have, give the model number, so people know what hardware you are talking about. They are all different. As I said, Wincor-Nixdorf builds he kind of hardware you are looking for (ATM, etc.)
As for the requirements:
You know, the first thing they will do (even before making room for the next person in the queue) is counting their money. They will not trust the system, because they cannot watch the system count (closed flaps and high speed).
Also, I see your problem now: They labour won't trust cheques and wire-transfer. I missed that part somehow, mainly because employers only need to offer wire-transfer here in Germany. Everything else is optional - and the Employer might even choose to charge for other modes of payment.
Hmm...
Interesting problem. Let me think about it some more....
Cheers,
Sebastian
--
"If it was two men, the non-driver would have challenged the driver to simply crash through the gates. The macho image thing, you know." - Marc Clifton
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excuse for my english........i am from mexico
CAN I obtain the characteristics of my PC by means of assembly language?
and....give me the code please !!!!!!!!!!
can i help me??? Thanks !!!
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Hi,
a lot of the PC characteristics (amount of RAM, disk size, USB devices, ...)
can be obtained WITHOUT assembly, assembly code does not help here at all.
some of the CPU characteristics (cache sizes, supported instructions, ...) can be
obtained with assembly, in particular by executing the CPUID instruction.
Intel offers an entire Application Note on that. Google it!
In order to run the CPUID from .NET, you would need a C/C++ native code DLL, and do
some PInvoke.
Luc Pattyn [Forum Guidelines] [My Articles]
this months tips:
- use PRE tags to preserve formatting when showing multi-line code snippets
- before you ask a question here, search CodeProject, then Google
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Hi guys,
I had it with this laptop, I have no clue why this Compaq Presario V3000 w/WinXP Home SP2 won't recognize the CD/DVD drive. 
I looked at the BIOS, and it doesn't show up there.
I looked at the Device Manager, and it doesn't show up there. (Yes, I scanned for new hardware too...)
At least, the Disk Management will sometimes list it, but not this time.
So, I am open for ideas. What do you suggest to do?
BTW, the CD/DVD drive works, so if I put a CD or DVD the disk spins, and the light flashes and all...but WinXP won't show anything.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks,
...neualex
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Sounds like the connection is loose or the drive hardware is on the way out. Many many problems are blamed on the software, but it can't do anything if the hardware doesn't respond to the messages sent.
Get it repaired/replaced.
DoEvents: Generating unexpected recursion since 1991
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Worst thing is that this drive is not removable, so I cannot check the IDE connection 
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All storage devices are removable. Your choice is to send it back to Compaq for repair or do it yourself (and void your warranty).
"Why don't you tie a kerosene-soaked rag around your ankles so the ants won't climb up and eat your candy ass..." - Dale Earnhardt, 1997
-----
"...the staggering layers of obscenity in your statement make it a work of art on so many levels." - Jason Jystad, 10/26/2001
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John,
Yes, I agree. All drives are removable; however, what I meant was this drive cannot be removed without actually opening the laptop.
I'd love to send it to Compaq, but warranty expired already for it.
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See what happens if you try booting off a live linux CD. IF you have trouble doing this consistently it's probably a hardware issue, if it works flawlessly every time it's probably software.
--
If you view money as inherently evil, I view it as my duty to assist in making you more virtuous.
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I tried to boot it up from a live Ubuntu CD (I changed the BIOS), and it didn't do it.
So, I guess the drive is broken 
Thanks for your help.
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- Hi! I just noticed this the other day, but in bios I have one temp sensor and it reads a minimum of 60C/~145F
- How do I recalibrate this because this just doesn't seem possible (fry an egg;P in there even though its cold ?)
AMD Athlon XP 2000+ @ 1.67 GHz
Fans x2
"Shorter of breath,
and one day closer to death." ~Pink Floyd
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I've never seen a motherboard that has the ability to recalibrate the sensors. It would appear that it has failed.
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Check for bios upgrades for the motherboard.
I've had one or two MBs, where the bios code for reading the sensor was wrong, and was fixed in a later version of the bios.
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I bought a thrift store Compaq Presario to use its power supply and case for a project.
It has a power switch on the back, but the front power switch attaches to the motherboard (which is now in the trash).
I need the power to be controlled only by the switch on the back.
After looking at AT power supply pin diagrams and experimenting I determined that connecting the PowerGood (Orange) line to the -5v (Grey) line does the trick.
Does anyone have any tips or gotchas to share?
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Hi PIEBALD,
PIEBALDconsult wrote: connecting the PowerGood (Orange) line to the -5v (Grey) line does the trick.
that does not sound right at all, in many ways.
According to some documents (Google!) the "power good" signal is an output from the
power supply, which becomes high to tell the motherboard power is good enough to start up
(hence release the /RESET input).
If the control line is a pseudo-digital one, it should either be pulled high, or pulled
to ground, never negative.
Normally I expect you need to connect a SENSE input to the corresponding voltage output
(that is 3.3V SENSE to 3.3V; or 5.0V SENSE to 5V on older systems). The sense feedback
should occur on the motherboard, as close to the highest load as possible, it is intended
to achieve a well regulated voltage at that location, independent of voltage drops along
the cables/PCB tracks due to varying currents.
In conclusion, maybe you interconnected the right pins, but I doubt the names you
mentioned apply; and anyhow, if one of them is a sense line, the connection should be
next to the actual load, not right at the power supply.
So I suggest you check the documentation again, and possibly throw a multimeter to it,
to make sure voltages are what they should be.
Regards,
Luc Pattyn [Forum Guidelines] [My Articles]
this months tips:
- use PRE tags to preserve formatting when showing multi-line code snippets
- before you ask a question here, search CodeProject, then Google
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Hi,
the fourth link tells us ATpsu should work without any special wiring.
didn't it work for you with PG open?
the second link suggests "power good" is an output which goes high when everything
has stabilized, as I expected. So connecting it to -5V seems a bad idea.
And I trust you read about the minimum load required (around 0.8A).
Luc Pattyn [Forum Guidelines] [My Articles]
this months tips:
- use PRE tags to preserve formatting when showing multi-line code snippets
- before you ask a question here, search CodeProject, then Google
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Most sources say that the AT PSU has the front switch connected directly to it, whereas the ATX has the front switch connected to the motherboard; this particular one seems to be an in-between design; newer than AT, older than ATX.
I'll mention that it also has another connector for the motherboard with three green and three black wires, which (from what I read) seems to be for PCI cards?
Luc Pattyn wrote: And I trust you read about the minimum load required (around 0.8A).
I skipped it until I read your earlier response. 
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It might be a nonstandard design like the dell PSUs from that era, in which case you'll need to track down maker specific data. IIRC the standard (but rarely used) 1x6 extra power cable provided 2 different voltages as well as ground.
--
If you view money as inherently evil, I view it as my duty to assist in making you more virtuous.
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I've now connected the -5 to ground and it seems to be working fine.
If it goes "poof" I'll let you know.
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Why do you insist on short-circuiting something? the purpose of the -5V output pin is to
provide a voltage of -5V with respect to the GROUND pins, and not to be short-circuited.
Maybe it will survive your abuse, but it does not have to. And maybe it will solve your
problem, but it does not have to either.
The only thing you should do is provide some load to the +5V (i.e. between +5V and ground)
in such a way that at least 0.8A is flowing all the time. A 5 to 6 ohm resistor should
do the trick, but be careful it will heat up and must be strong enough to dissipate
4 to 5W (current*voltage) so it cannot be a regular .25W or .5W resistor, it would have
to be one of those wire-wound resistors (about 1 inch long, 1/3 inch thick).
Alternatively you could attach a light bulb (as from a bike's or car's head light),
that too would (have to) heat up a bit, again dissipating some 5 Watts.
What also is supposed to work is just connecting an obsolete motherboard, whatever is on
board will need a couple amps.
And whatever you do, once everything has been set up, I suggest you actually measure the
voltages you plan on using, before you use them, since after your experiments I am not
that confident your PSU is still OK...
Luc Pattyn [Forum Guidelines] [My Articles]
this months tips:
- use PRE tags to preserve formatting when showing multi-line code snippets
- before you ask a question here, search CodeProject, then Google
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Vibrator of my Nokia 6600 is not working properly for 3 days, does anyone one know how to troubleshoot that.
Best Regards,
Mushq
Mushtaque Ahmed Nizamani
Software Engineer
Ultimus Pakistan
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Mushq wrote: Vibrator of my Nokia 6600 is not working properly for 3 days
I don't want to know how you broke it. It could be because of over-use.
Mushq wrote: does anyone one know how to troubleshoot that.
Does it vibrate? No? It's broke.
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Shut down/close the phone, boot it up again; see if it reset the vibration.
Toggle on and off the vibration mode, just in case.
Reset the phone ( there must be a reset menu somewhere ) to the factory settings.
if it does not work, pay a visit on one of the howard chui forums (google for howard chui ), maybe someone can help you.
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Maximilien wrote: Shut down/close the phone, boot it up again; see if it reset the vibration.
Toggle on and off the vibration mode, just in case.
Reset the phone ( there must be a reset menu somewhere ) to the factory settings.
I tried, but these didn't work.
Maximilien wrote: if it does not work, pay a visit on one of the howard chui forums (google for howard chui ), maybe someone can help you.
Thanks for that, I am going to check that.
Best Regards,
Mushq
Mushtaque Ahmed Nizamani
Software Engineer
Ultimus Pakistan
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