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I have a box with many large-capacity harddrives and I'm running Windows 10 (I might be from the future and I'm getting a message from myself telling me that Windows 10 is now passe; what are ya going to do, right?). At least three of my large-capacity drives are HIDDEN, meaning that no drive letter is currently assigned to them. All drives on the system show up in Device Manager, even the ones that are only partition stubbs and have never held any data or user-accessible content.
The reason for putting these drives behind the scenes is many fold (ha, "manifold"). The main reason being that the content kept on them is redundant. Which leads me to my question:
When Windows, in general, begins it's reign of supremacy over my UPDATE/UPGRADE schedule, by background loading/downloading/installing then insisting (on whatever final action is necessary to some degree) on displaying the green checkmark, is "it" capable or does it "actually" take a look at those drives that Windows Explorer CAN NOT see (the aforementioned hidden members) to describe some system state and/or take note of drive space on them ... before it begins this tirade of going through the download/install update?
So, I guess I'm also asking whether anyone has ever encountered Windows sacking disc-space on a drive they've deemed non-accessible just for this non-documented behavioral annoyance?
I am finding it hard to find information about escape codes that the camera Canon EOS 2000D would respond to. Usually I connect devices such as a telescope mount through the serial port and I send strings to the mount and so on.
Canon do supply DLL libraries that allow communication with the camera. I am wondering if anyone has experience with this method, more importantly how to connect to the camera Wirelessly.
I also have a Skywatcher AZ-GTI mount that also connects wirelessly and I would like to also control it via my software NTC [network telescope control]. I have the necessary information for the mount, but not with the camera.
Nevertheless, Canon do supply the necessary DLL's. The other problem I have is how to connect to both devices together. One solution I have it to use two repeaters, each connecting to either device. Both repeaters then connect to a hub and my Windows machine plugs into the hub. How the IP addresses work then I don't know.
One customer asked me to replace an HDD in an old computer (robot controller).
Now they have there a 2.5" 60GB HDD ATA-7 HDD plugged using an IDE to ATA-7 converter (the computer have an IDE interface).
Do you think that would work? Is it possible to use a simple conversion device and not needing to install drivers? My plan would be to burn an image of the previous HDD into the new SSD one and plug it.
It should be possible; I have done it recently on two Windows 10 laptops. I used the SSD manufacture's software to copy the image from the hard drive to the SSD. I then swapped devices, powered up, and the system runs fine.
BTW, the link in your signature looks suspiciously like spam. You may wish to remove it.
(Apologies for the repeat --- I posted this in the Lounge yesterday, before someone pointed me to the proper forum)
For those in DIY electronics...
Exactly how good is USB for providing power to a device? I specifically mean devices that are not attached to a computer and use the USB cable strictly for power.
I've long felt that we need a standardized low-voltage DC power source coming right out of our walls, much in the manner that we currently have 120V (or 220V) AC coming out of our walls -- to eliminate the need of all those "brick" power adapters cluttering our power strips. The last time I discussed this publicly (about 10+ years ago), I was scoffed, with the reason being every device uses a different voltage. (I rejected that, as AC devices were able to adapt to use 110V, so DC devices could adapt to use the standardized voltage).
The real problem was that every device used it's own plug size (and selling the proprietary adapter was a profit center). However, now there's some movement to power things with USB cables.
So, the question for the electrically minded here: If all you had available to power your device was an USB cable, would that be viable?
Clocks would be fine, Very small lamps (some LED Only?) and anything bigger than a novelty with a motor or tries to change a temperature will eat more amps than what USB ports deliver or cables are designed to carry.
I encourage you to continue your research though; please review motor home or camper power use - in many cases it's 24V DC and may answer many of your questions for how and what.
Or better yet, invent motors or heating elements that are actually practical and only require < 1 amp and 10V to run- that would make you a fortune!