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If they can sell more cars.
I don't think they care what cars they are as long as they sell.
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5 years ago I bought a cordless drill.
1 year ago, I could not even drill a hole in a package of butter.
I looked around for a replacement battery and found one.
The downside was that while the drill was £41, the battery was £35.
And a brand new model of the drill was just £33.
So while you might get replacement batteries, it is not always smart to buy them.
First, look around if there isn't a better value for money replacement.
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JohaViss61 wrote: brand new model of the drill was just £33.
33 for a drill ? That maybe explains it.
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And it was a Black and Decker.
The DIY stores are always promoting stuff. It is like a battle between them
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JohaViss61 wrote: The downside was that while the drill was £41, the battery was £35.
And a brand new model of the drill was just £33.
This is why I buy around November/December when I can get a drill motor, two batteries, charger, and case for $100. A lone battery is around $55.
"One man's wage rise is another man's price increase." - Harold Wilson
"Fireproof doesn't mean the fire will never come. It means when the fire comes that you will be able to withstand it." - Michael Simmons
"You can easily judge the character of a man by how he treats those who can do nothing for him." - James D. Miles
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Too bad they never break down in October/November/December, but in February/March/April
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Sorry but Ryobi would like to have a conversation with you. Same battery interface with full backwards compatibility going back to 1996.
Furthermore, most of the rest of the companies had to standardize as well because of their (Ryobi) stalwart dedication to the same battery voltage and interface.
Now if you want to cheap right out on something from Princess Auto, Harbor Freight, Canadian Tire or some other truly house brand tool from your local hardware/department store, then yes. You will likely find disappointment.
As to any of the complaints about power or runtime, it is clear that any of you making such a comment have never used Lithium Ion tools. I will use my 18v LiIon tools far faster than any of my corded equivalents for both the cordless AND power convenience. Add in the fact that newer brushless motor tools have been added to the Ryobi lineup and now you have even more power and longer runtime. And again... All on the same battery standards since 1996.
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As soon as I put Dyson here, im sure people will be shaking their heads.
Anyhow, got a handheld vacuum cleaner near 10 years ago. The battery which at the time rated to last 10 minutes, which for a daily quick run around small house is usually plenty.
Move 5 years on, that was maybe 5 minutes. So gave in last year and look up knockoff replacement. Keep in mind the battery unit on these things is designed to clips out easily.
Yet Dyson do not seem interested in over priced selling on the battery unit, instead change a little plastic connector num, which likely i could shave of and still connect..
Im here like im will to shove money in your face, but nah, same tech in a very slight different housing.
But knockoff market was good. Battery with double capacity then the dyson branded (its more cells inside and dyson which is purposely weighted to feel heavy instead of using the space, not surprising)
Battery worked great, until it ran out and went to plug in the power charger.
No charge. Odd that the charger has more detection prevention then the main unit.
Initially gave up, went back to 2-3 minute charge battery.
Then tried lookup battery charger, ok price. and works just fine.
Again, same battery 99% of shape still in use by Dyson, but every year they change the connector so they can market changeable battery but still keep in obsolescence 
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On the battery there will be a model number. Put that model number into duckduckgo search engine and see what you get. I have an old Black & Decker battery electric mower (old as in late 90s) and I can still find batteries for it.
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NiCd batteries need to be used regularly to be able to hold a charge. It's a poor choice for something that's going to sit unused for most of a year (not that it was your choice). You might have better luck with lithium batteries. There are also battery repair stores all over the place, so they might be able to extend your tool's lifetime when it comes to that.
A cord on a hedge trimmer is going to be just as annoying if your hedge is large. And eventually the plastic insulation on the wiring is going to break down. Maybe you'll get twenty to thirty years out of it. Plan your budget accordingly.
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I bought several products from a "universal" line of small battery-powered devices, figuring that the battery packs would be replaceable and interchangeable. Not only did the battery packs die, but the company didn't add any models to their line, so both the product and its entire concept became obsolete.
Some of the motors for these battery-powered devices make good robot effectors.
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No Science here but if you are going to purchase a cordless anything
in the Power Tool Visit the local Pawn Shop and look at the brands and
the type of Battery the tool requires and the motor type Brush less
vs Brushed
You will find very few Milwaukee M 18 Lithium Brush Less tools
Ryobi 18 Volt Lithium Brush Less Tools
If you are shopping NEW this is a way to weed out what you do NOT want
Ryobi and Milwaukee are both owned by Hong Kong based manufacturing company Techtronic Industries
The price difference is HUGE by my standard that said I still believe you get what you pay for
Side Note I have a 20 year old Dewalt Corded Drill will drive screws in 2 in OAK with no effort
the Milwaukee Fuel Hammer Drill takes longer and more effort
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We've used a local place that would take those packs apart and rebuild them for us. I think it was Batteries Plus.
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batteries plus will rebuild the batteries for you.
To err is human to really elephant it up you need a computer
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I used to use rechargeable nicad batteries with bicycle lights. I learned from the seller that you have to fully discharge the battery before recharging it, otherwise it develops a type of memory where it will not hold more power than you usually use.
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An 18v Ni-Cd battery is not going to last very long. All the cells are in series, and so they all discharge and charge at the same rate. But since they don't have exactly the same capacity, the weakest cell will end up being fully discharged first (and possibly reverse charged, which is especially bad for Ni-Cd cells), and it will be fully charged before the others, further stressing it. Once this cell goes bad the whole thing is toast. So fully cycling an 18v Ni-Cd battery can cause it to go bad sooner than mostly discharging it.
I have several of the Ryobi one+ series of tools and batteries. All the Ni-Cd batteries have long ago gone dead and been discarded, and all the Lithium-Ion batteries I bought are still going strong. Yes they cost a lot more, but they are well worth the difference in price.
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Not just cordless equipment, but other things like printers. Print head on my HP 8640 died. $200 for a new print head; $180 for a new printer--go figure. BTW, the time to replace the print head is under 5 minutes and requires no tools.
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The mention of computer history and the book, "Soul of a New Machine" made me remember the old days and mini-computers. They were called "mini" because they weren't like the old room-filling mainframes. Most of these were about the size of standard refrigerator. That's the era in computing that I am most fascinated with and one that the details of are mostly unknown to most people today. I especially like how the machines were built. They used what is known as the "bit-slice" design. The CPU usually took an entire two-foot square circuit board and it was built with circuits that were initially just one bit wide and they essentially stacked them together to achieve the word width they wanted. Many of which were 32-bits and, as I recall, DG's was 36. AMD was probably the biggest company making the chips at the time and eventually they came up with 4-bit wide chips. All of this was before microprocessors became useful enough to compete with the bit-slice designs.
An amusing story from the tail end of this era : I worked at a company that had a room full of mini-computers including several VAXes. We were doing a project that controlled the North Shore Pipeline and talked to several RTUs using the Modbus binary protocol. It uses CRC-32 CRC-16 to compute a checksum for every packet and that would bring the VAX 750s to its knees. The CPU usage would spike every time because this was before the table-driven algorithm had been publicized. DEC's answer was to implement the CRC-32 CRC algorithm in firmware. To implement this a new set of microcode on EPROM was installed and the CPU board was re-wired. The local service guy, Ed, came and had to change the wiring on the CPU board which was ALL wire-wrapped. I couldn't believe it. It was NOT a printed circuit board - it was all wire-wrapped. Those modifications made a huge difference and CPU usage was normal afterward. This was in around 1985 or so and it still amazes me.
"They have a consciousness, they have a life, they have a soul! Damn you! Let the rabbits wear glasses! Save our brothers! Can I get an amen?"
modified 13-May-21 12:25pm.
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Rick York wrote: several VAXes
Before Ravi falls over in a dead faint, I'll let you in on a small correction. The plural form of "VAX" is "VAXen"  .
I worked on several VAX-11/780's back during the 1980's. The 780 would let you load microcode at startup time via an 8" floppy drive attached to the PDP-11 they used as a console/boot device.Rick York wrote: the wiring on the CPU board which was ALL wire-wrapped
Reminds me of a project I watched in the same facility during that era. It was a graphics engine, 1024x1024 resolution, with 32 bit planes. Four cabinets of 8 bit planes each, 4 boards per bit plane. Each board was densely populated and looked to be about 24" square. All. Wire. Wrap. I really felt sorry for the poor schmucks installing the nightmare. After months of work they finally got one cabinet to power up successfully and run for a demo. I don't think the Air Force ever accepted the system, however.
Software Zen: delete this;
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I still insist that the plural is "VACes" -- "VAXen" is too Germanic in my opinion.
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Gary Wheeler wrote: Each board was densely populated and looked to be about 24" square. All. Wire. Wrap. I really felt sorry for the poor schmucks installing the nightmare.
I have a small project I created that uses a small tft screen and there is one data line for each channel (8 total) plus about 8 or so other lines I have to wire to the arduino and just dealing with those few and running into issues where something isn't making a great connection can drive you insane, so I can only imagine.
Best Debugging Tool Ever: Continuity test setting on multimeter. 
Great stories, thanks for sharing
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You're welcome.
Software Zen: delete this;
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Why CRC32?
"In testa che avete, Signor di Ceprano?"
-- Rigoletto
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That is part of the Modbus RTU standard. The Modbus ASCII protocol does not require a CRC but apparently they added it for the binary RTU version. Back then, communication was mostly 9600bps and 19600 was considered fast. RTUs were usually separated at far distances so repeaters and modems were frequently used. In the case of the pipeline, the RTUs were separated by about a quarter mile between them so some were miles away.
Today, the vast majority of communication using Modbus is over TCP/IP and no checksums are used - TCP/IP's error handling is relied on.
"They have a consciousness, they have a life, they have a soul! Damn you! Let the rabbits wear glasses! Save our brothers! Can I get an amen?"
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