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Erudite_Eric wrote: The USB plug is pretty crude
I mention the short because the same thing happened to my desktop. I accidentally broke the plastic portion when I pulled sideways on a thumb drive (it was stuck on my shirt). The plastic piece broke and the leads were left behind, so if I forget and plug something into that port it causes a short.
Drivers can cause the same types of issues, but the most common is the all dreaded blue screen of death. I guess he has to cover the basis to find out what's really wrong.
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Yes,, drivers BSOD, but if they have an endles wait or dealock that will lock the machined up, and those can be quite common driver faults too.
Verifier will tell you if a driver is making those kinds of errors.
==============================
Nothing to say.
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loctrice wrote: I don't think it has much to do with the drivers
Dxont believe it. A driver can fail very very randomly. It all depends on what memory id over written and what tries to use that memory.
If you like, ie, its a good idea, run Verifier (type Verifier at a command prompt) and check each USB driver on the syste, in turn. Select all but low resource simulation.
What it will do is check a driver very thouroughly and BSOD the machine with a usefull dump. (Have the machine set up to create full kernel dumps).
THen open the dump, mempry.dmp, in windbg and see what it says (need to type analyse -v in the command line at the bvottom of windb after it has loaded the dmp file)
It is very good verifier. If you have a driver issue, it will find it.
==============================
Nothing to say.
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Have you looked at Event Viewer?
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hi, i'm new in using wireless usb modem and i got a few question
1. is that true EVDO is faster than HSPA? if no, which one is better?
2. is that true HSPA modem is stabler than EVDO and that makes gaming don't lag?
3. if i use the same ISP (same internet price) using 14.4MB modem and 7.2MB modem, is that true 14.4MB is faster?
i've searched in google about this and found mostly blogs advertising ISP. 
sorry for bad english but thankyou for reading..
modified 28-Feb-12 21:17pm.
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i Would say check the signal level of the network provider. By hardware both HSPDA and EVDO are good . But signal level depends on the area u r using the device. I use EVDO , Personally i feel it good. Go by the network signal in the area u r using it....Not by the rates or hardware.
All the best .
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so hardware doesn't affect the speed or ping?
thankyou very much.. 
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My Dell Inspiron 1525 will Power Off without warning at battery end.
I did a regular windows (7) update at the weekend, and I had the instinct that it would not end well when I saw all the chkdsk stuff scrolling up.
I was correct, now when the battery reaches end of charge, it terminates without warning loosing any unsaved work.
I have been through the power options but I cannot see what I need to reset.
I have also recently installed Winzip Utilities suite to help manage the machine.
Note Malaware anti Malware has caused unexpected shutdowns at a point in its process for over a year now. Discussions here lead to a consensus that there is probably a bad sector in the disk, althouth none is being detected. This may be a factor - but this latest problem is definately confined to the end of the charge.
All thoughts and suggestions greatly appreciated.
Ger
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Ger Hayden wrote: I have been through the power options but I cannot see what I need to reset.
Control Panel -> Power Options, click the "Change plan settings" link on the current selection. Click "Change advance power settings" on the next page, scroll down the list box in the popup and check the settings for battery levels and notification.
Unrequited desire is character building. OriginalGriff
I'm sitting here giving you a standing ovation - Len Goodman
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Critical battery action is hibernate.
Ger
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I know, but you also use that dialog to set the alarm points so it should warn you at certain intervals when battery power is low. On my Windows 7 machine there is an entry: Low Battery notification: On.
Unrequited desire is character building. OriginalGriff
I'm sitting here giving you a standing ovation - Len Goodman
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Hi Richard,
All warning in order. System still thinks theres 20% plus power available when it stops. The battery is over 2 years old. I recently used Winzip utilities to boost the system performance and I think the battery has gone 'off the cliff'. It gets used on the battery for about 90 mins twice a day three days a week. This week its been delivering about 50 minutes. It varies. The last night it performed well was when I was doing a very intensive database reorg.
It might be time for another replacement. In 12 years of using laptops the batteries have typically lasted no more than 2 years...
Ger
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Ger Hayden wrote: System still thinks theres 20% plus power available when it stops.
Definitely sounds like a bad battery.
Unrequited desire is character building. OriginalGriff
I'm sitting here giving you a standing ovation - Len Goodman
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One on order from yesterday.
Now that I know its crapping out early I am saving my work with obsessive regularity, and all that extra disk activity is eating up the power even quicker. But it did still manage 70 minutes this morning...
Ger
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I hope this is the right forum for this question.
I need a generic NIC driver that upon installation will allow the host computer connect to a network so that the correct driver for the NIC can be found from our driver library and installed. So is there such a beast out there?
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You can onnly have a generic driver for a NIC if you have generic HW (in the same way UARTs all use the same register layout and command set). NICs dont, so the answer is no I am afraid.
==============================
Nothing to say.
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Damn, I had a feeling that might be the answer  
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Yeah, there isnt much standardisati8on in HW at that level, ie directly touching IO ports.
You will have to preinstall all the various NIC drivers on each machine. SHouldnt be too hard, just a script or simple program to run the inf files.
==============================
Nothing to say.
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Looking at the large array of SSD and massively varying prices and specs, what exactly is the best approach to take from your own experience and knowledge on the subject matter.
Looking at the specs, there are 3 main factors from a speed point of view; Write / Read and IOps
Then there is the capacity and price.
As an example;
An Intel 520 series 480GB is 520MB/s write and 42K IOps and 806ukp
An OCZ Agility 3 240GB is 500MB/s write 525MB/s read and 85K IOps @ 227ukp.
It must be better to get the 2x240 cheaper units and Raid Stripe these into one disk, than buy the larger single disk? In fact you could buy 3 smaller disks for the price of the one larger which would give you a 720GB rapido stripe set for the price of the single larger (and smaller) disk.
It is bonus time of the year, and i've got money burning a whole in my pocket (i think) so seriously considering a purchase here, but want to maximise bang for buck.
Your thoughts appreciated........Thanks.
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The main thing to consider is actually the controller inside the unit. There have been countless bugs and problems with controllers and firmwares, the last one with a new unit only a few weeks ago, causing data corruption and other reliability issues. So basically the first thing I would look would be user reviews and reports for bugs/errors/problems. Also, I would only purchase a unit that is not a brand-new model, but instead that has a few months of life so potential problems have been found (and hopefully fixed) already.
Regarding RAID setups, they may give you some benefit if individual disks themselves do not use all the SATA bandwidth. With SATA3 that shouldn't happen, but it depends on your motherboard. In other words, it might be that a single uni already fills most of the bandwidth, so using two units in RAID0 would not give you an enormous benefit.
Also, don't consider SSDs as indestructible. Quite the opposite actually. Jeff Atwood said that he has never seen a SSD last more than one year or so. So do backup your data.
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As eager as I have been to use an SSD as a primary drive, I have been reluctant because of reported high-failure rates as you note by quoting Atwood in your message. And by the relatively higher cost here in Thailand.
It is interesting to me that just today I saw, on-line, on Thailand's kind of wannabe version of NewEgg, SSD's (Kingston brand) offered with a 3 year warranty: before today I had seen only offerings of SSD's with only a 1 year warranty.
Given climate/humidity extremes here (in even a pretty well heat-shielded room, with air-con in use during the worst weather) local consensus is that most every IDE or ATA hard-drive will fail within two years of intensive use. Failure within two years has been my experience on almost every drive I've used here, even ones used, more rarely, as back-up drives.
Fortunately we can buy hard drives here with three and five year warranties, and, interestingly, replacement can be quite prompt (as you may know many companies manufacture hard-drives here in Thailand, or did until the recent flooding of the large industrial estates where most of them were manufactured were damaged by this year's severe flooding).
Now, if I went down to Bangkok, and really shopped-around in the giant emporia, maybe I'd find SSD's from other manufacturers being also offered with three year warranties, so take this single observation with a grain of salt.
best, Bill
"Your theory is crazy, but it's not crazy enough to be true." Niels Bohr
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not sure I can quote speeds at you Dave - my Sony Vaio Z-Series has
64GB x 4 SSD, in a Raid 0 Partition, giving 256GB - its been around the world once, and on plenty of trips up and down Aus, without missing a beat. While I realise I should back it up, its a sweet machine that hasnt yet given me any issues
ps .. the SSD's are SAMSUNG MMCRE28GQDVP-MVB
'g'
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I would go for a RAID5 with 3 SSDs set up. That way you gain some speed too while having a backup. Not just back-up/mirror as in Raid 0 with 2 HDDs.
All the best,
Dan
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Remember that when you're using striping, whether in Raid 0 or Raid 5, the controller will write a whole stripe every time you write anything to disk, so striping might slow things down in many scenarios.
I always recommend Raid 0 or 5 for storage only. For OS I recommend plain disk or mirroring.
The Intel disk is about 10% faster, and it's entirely up to you whether it's worth it or not, I personally wouldn't care.
But very noticable is the lower power needed for the Intel drive, which is definitely making a difference in a laptop.
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I've had an Intel SSD for a couple of years now as my C:\ drive with no problems - actually, it's fantanstic
I bought an OCZ Vertex 3 MI a couple of months ago to use as my dev drive. Again no problems, but it's not noticibly faster than my VelociRaptor.
So my experience is that the price premium is warrented when you are reading lots of small files spread out randomly on the disc ( i.e. your C:\ drive ), but there's not much to be gained when the files are larger and accessed in order.
So, I wouldn't buy a large SSD at the moment - what are you going to put on it? I'm actually considering using the OCZ as a mirror ( RAID 1 ) for my C:\ drive. I'm not that impressed with it in its present role.
Nick
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