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Thanks for the response! I have another box with a 24 pin MB connector that works. (although with the 20 pin MB connector attached) I think I'll take the time to try the PSU that I bought in that one. If it doesn't work, then I have to assume the PSU is bad, and will just get them to send me another. Will post back tonight with the results.
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Yep, that would do it...now if I can just find these local, or spend $5 shipping for a $4 part! Thanks for the post!
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I linked to amazon because it's eligible for free shipping if you tack it onto an existing order. IIRC Google turned up one for $6 or 7 shipped.
3x12=36
2x12=24
1x12=12
0x12=18
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OK, this has me beat...
I have a 1GB CompactFlash card I want to use in my camera, and it shows up fine in Windows explorer with a single 61 MB partition and 923 MB of free unallocated space.
1) I right click on the allocated space and the option delete the volume is greyed out. I can format it, but I can't repartition the card at all.
2) All I can do on the unallocated space that shows up is a few options about adding spanned, stripped, and mirrored volumes.
3) The card itself has no switch on it to place it into 'read only mode' or 'protected mode' and I assumed that would have also blocked the formatting so...
I have formatted CF cards on my machine before without issues... but this Lexar card is kicking my butt for some reason. Keep in mind that it DID start out with this 61 MB partition as a bootable one (originally used as a HD for a small scale embedded VM system) and was running a a copy of ROM DOS.
Any one out there with any ideas?
Hate to just toss a 1 GB CF card in the trash if I can save it and use it with my camera.
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Two ideas:
1.
Have you tried the Computer Management utility? It is part of Windows (since XP IIRC), and allows you to resize existing partitions and create new ones, at least on regular disks. I don't know what it will offer for CompactFlash though.
2.
Some USB sticks come with extra software that basically offers two partitions, a small unprotected one, and a second, encrypted one, that becomes visible and read/writable only once that software has been launched with the right password.
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Luc Pattyn wrote: Have you tried the Computer Management utility?
Yeah, that's where I do everything. Hmmm what I have NOT tried though is just plan old FDISK... might be worth it. Maybe something like Norton...
Luc Pattyn wrote: Some USB sticks come with extra software
Nah, not on these guys.. I know what's on them... I just have an odd feeling that windows is somehow freaking because the primary partition on this card WAS bootable, but looking it at shows no signs of any hidden files left, or anything odd like that. Might just end up digging around at the fdisk layer a bit...
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More ideas:
3.
IIRC the bootability of a partition consists of a single bit; once cleared it should be gone.
4.
I regularly see messages telling Windows does not want to create/use more than one partition on some devices; can't remember any details though.
5.
if your CompactFlash also fits in another device (say a camera, a media player), maybe you can have it formatted there.
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Hi , have a good
Is there is some kind of wireless router or wireless device "CAN SEND" long range wireless signal ,
P.S :
long range : 1 KM - 5 KM ,
Thank you !
I know nothing , I know nothing ...
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Your device needs to have an external antenna connection. Then make a search for "Directional Antenna".
But remember that the radiofrequency of unlicensed wireless routers (b,g,n) is the same as for a microwave oven (2450 GHz), which means that all humidity absorbs your radio output.
And on top of that, the maximum power (unlicensed) is 50 mw.
So, if you don't live in a desert, the actual range might be quite random.
"When did ignorance become a point of view" - Dilbert
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Thank you , for this answer , it's very helpful ,
I know nothing , I know nothing ...
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You're welcome
"When did ignorance become a point of view" - Dilbert
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I use long range wireless radios for electrical substation monitoring and control, and regularly manage 10 - 15 mile links with off the shelf equipment. It isn't cheap, but it's a lot cheaper than all the alternatives. GE, Motorola, Proxim, Ubiquiti are a few manufacturers that provide the equipment, with Motorola being the most expensive, and Ubiquiti the cheapest. Ideally, I'd use fiber, or even DSL, but fiber is too pricey, and DSL isn't an option; phone companies don't like bringing their copper lines into an electrical substation. It seems their switches have alergies to 25kV+ signals. 
Will Rogers never met me.
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If going into the zap room was the only concern, DSL terminating at am 802.11 box a safe distance outside the substation would protect their magic smoke.
3x12=36
2x12=24
1x12=12
0x12=18
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I know; for that matter, it wouldn't be too hard (or costly) to build an optoisolator and install it in the line just outside the fence. Heck, it's very likely an off the shelf item I can pick up from a catalog by now. I think they're just jealous that we can make much bigger smoke signals than they can.
Will Rogers never met me.
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Roger Wright wrote: it wouldn't be too hard (or costly) to build an optoisolator and install it in the line just outside the fence. Heck, it's very likely an off the shelf item I can pick up from a catalog by now.
I limited my suggestions to wifi because that wouldn't require them to trust you to know what you were doing. IF they did that in the 1st place the whole issue would be moot, and they'd trust you to do this without being prodded.
Roger Wright wrote: I think they're just jealous that we can make much bigger smoke signals than they can.
Probably. 
3x12=36
2x12=24
1x12=12
0x12=18
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lorenzodesigns wrote: my concern is will it handle the new video cards.. (pci express)
No.
The list for PCI Expansion gives you.
• 1x 64-bit 133/100/66MHz PCI-X (3.3V) slot
• 2x 64-bit 100/66MHz PCI-X (3.3V) slots
• 3x 32-bit 33MHz PCI (5V) slots
There's nothing about PCI-E there.
"When did ignorance become a point of view" - Dilbert
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My advice is to sell it and use the p5roceeds towards a new dual/quad core system. In addition to not supporting any halfway decent GPUs, it only supports P4 xeon's, so they're only about as fast a 2gig modern CPU but will draw either 95 or 165W each. You'll also need expensive ECC ram, so it's going to be a slow power hungry moneypit.
3x12=36
2x12=24
1x12=12
0x12=18
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Could someone explain what is and what for Smatp Domains(IIS6-> Default SMTP Virtual Server->Domains)?
I read here but didn't understood
Could you please explain me?
Thank you
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I agree; the description of Remote Domains is rather vague. But the description of a local domain is clear enough. You get one default local domain with IIS6, which your SMTP server considers its own. Any mail arriving addressed to that domain will be delivered to a mailbox on your server (if the username is a member of the domain), or returned to sender if the username is unknown. You can also alias the local default domain in order to accept incoming mail addressed to the alias domain. Remote domains are a bit different, but if I'm reading it correctly - and the way I'd expect to set it up - are domains which are not local, but which you want your SMTP server to handle. Most SMTP servers in private networks are configured to reject mail for any domains other than local domains, in order to avoid unwittingly forwarding spam.
Will Rogers never met me.
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Hi all...
I have a ThinkPad, T400 laptop with windows 7 professional 64 bit on it, which has built-in modem - ThinkPad Modem Adapter, which is attached to COM3.
Everything worked very well until I plugged some external modem (via USB), which was detected perfectly by windows, and attached to COM5. After I plugged the external modem sound from both of the modems disappeared.
I've searched in any place I could think about where to change modem's volume, tried to configure it with ATL[0-2] command, removed USB modem, removed internal modem, installed it once again - nothing, there is no sound. It does works, it dials the phone numbers, but without any single sound, and sound is what I need most of all!
Any ideas how can I fix it?
thanks in advance!
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![Rose | [Rose]](https://www.codeproject.com/script/Forums/Images/rose.gif)
Hi.
I have a laptop(Toshiba).When i make wireless network and other(for example 1) connect to my network and want to get a file(s)(with 1 GB size)it take 4 hour or more to get.Is that common?
Are there some ways to make the speed high?
Thank you.
CanI
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No, it's not. Your speed problem is probably antenna related. The closer you can get to a direct line of site to the AP, the better. If you're going through a floor or too many walls, that will reduce speed. Composition of the walls will also have an effect on speed. If you're in an EM noisy area, that will also reduce speeds. Orientation of the AP's antenna will have an effect. It goes on and on...
About the only settings you can change that would have a dramatic effect on speed would be the channel number you're using. Google for "802.11 wireless best channel" and start reading and experimenting. Who knows...you may even find a tool to tell you what your best channel is.
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it also depends on your type of wireless. is it 802.11a/b/g/n? the lowest letter of the participants determines maximum speed of the communication.
on 802.11n 1GB should take less than one hour.
if you can and haven't already, it makes sense to compress the data before transmitting it; any ZIP utility would be fine (but it wouldn't help for things that are compressed already, such as JPEG files).
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