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Hi T M Gray,
Thanks for your response !
The motherboard in question here is a P35 chipset, LGA775 socket, Gigabyte, about three years old, both motherboard and Award Bios, supporting up to 8 gigs in 4 simm slots with optional 800/1066/1333 FSB: in other words, compared to today's premium motherboards, an "antique" 
However, you have given me an idea: I wonder if turning on the optional Vista "Aero" effects ... given the increase to 4 gigs of ram ... would now result in no difference in perceived speed of performance.
With only 2 gigs, and Aero glossy-glassy stuff turned on, there was a definite performance hit, which is why I have left them off.
As I said, I don't play any games on this machine other than C# in Visual Studio, so this may be irrelevant.
thanks, Bill
"Many : not conversant with mathematical studies, imagine that because it [the Analytical Engine] is to give results in numerical notation, its processes must consequently be arithmetical, numerical, rather than algebraical and analytical. This is an error. The engine can arrange and combine numerical quantities as if they were letters or any other general symbols; and it fact it might bring out its results in algebraical notation, were provisions made accordingly." Ada, Countess Lovelace, 1844
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I am usually pretty good at fixing hardware issues, but this has me baffled...I have a dell 3100 workstation (about 4 years old) which refused to boot after a power outage...pressing the power button does absolutely nothing...no lights in front, no POST. Also, the fan did not spin up at all. Thinking it was probably the power supply, I swapped out the PSU with an older working PSU. The system powered up...problem solved right? I thought so too. A replacement PSU arrived within a week, which I hooked up, but no dice...same as the original PSU...nothing at all happens when the power button is pressed, and the fan (in the PSU) does not spin up with power applied. Weird huh? I tested the PSU with a voltmeter and it is good. The first thing I noticed was that the fan spun up when I shorted the green to black. So why not just keep the PSU that is working in it and forget about it?...because I can't put the case cover on with the working PSU, (the SATA power connector for the HD is not right-angle like the proprietary Dell PSU...also, the original PSU uses a 24 pin MB connector, and the working one uses a 20 pin. (actually, that I could live with) As I said, the PSU that works is a 20 pin MB connector and neither of the PSUs with 24 pins work at all, even though they test as good. Any ideas?
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I don't have that type of computer, but I would check to see what is common between the 2 power supplies that don't work and different with the one that does. Is there a power cable different? Is there some sort of safety switch?
I'd venture a guess that there is a poor connection somewhere. A voltmeter can read fine, but once you draw some current, the voltage drops.
Good luck and let us know what you find out!
CQ de W5ALT
Walt Fair, Jr., P. E.
Comport Computing
Specializing in Technical Engineering Software
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Thanks for the response! I have another box with a 24 pin MB connector that works. (although with the 20 pin MB connector attached) I think I'll take the time to try the PSU that I bought in that one. If it doesn't work, then I have to assume the PSU is bad, and will just get them to send me another. Will post back tonight with the results.
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Yep, that would do it...now if I can just find these local, or spend $5 shipping for a $4 part! Thanks for the post!
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I linked to amazon because it's eligible for free shipping if you tack it onto an existing order. IIRC Google turned up one for $6 or 7 shipped.
3x12=36
2x12=24
1x12=12
0x12=18
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OK, this has me beat...
I have a 1GB CompactFlash card I want to use in my camera, and it shows up fine in Windows explorer with a single 61 MB partition and 923 MB of free unallocated space.
1) I right click on the allocated space and the option delete the volume is greyed out. I can format it, but I can't repartition the card at all.
2) All I can do on the unallocated space that shows up is a few options about adding spanned, stripped, and mirrored volumes.
3) The card itself has no switch on it to place it into 'read only mode' or 'protected mode' and I assumed that would have also blocked the formatting so...
I have formatted CF cards on my machine before without issues... but this Lexar card is kicking my butt for some reason. Keep in mind that it DID start out with this 61 MB partition as a bootable one (originally used as a HD for a small scale embedded VM system) and was running a a copy of ROM DOS.
Any one out there with any ideas?
Hate to just toss a 1 GB CF card in the trash if I can save it and use it with my camera.
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Two ideas:
1.
Have you tried the Computer Management utility? It is part of Windows (since XP IIRC), and allows you to resize existing partitions and create new ones, at least on regular disks. I don't know what it will offer for CompactFlash though.
2.
Some USB sticks come with extra software that basically offers two partitions, a small unprotected one, and a second, encrypted one, that becomes visible and read/writable only once that software has been launched with the right password.
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Luc Pattyn wrote: Have you tried the Computer Management utility?
Yeah, that's where I do everything. Hmmm what I have NOT tried though is just plan old FDISK... might be worth it. Maybe something like Norton...
Luc Pattyn wrote: Some USB sticks come with extra software
Nah, not on these guys.. I know what's on them... I just have an odd feeling that windows is somehow freaking because the primary partition on this card WAS bootable, but looking it at shows no signs of any hidden files left, or anything odd like that. Might just end up digging around at the fdisk layer a bit...
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More ideas:
3.
IIRC the bootability of a partition consists of a single bit; once cleared it should be gone.
4.
I regularly see messages telling Windows does not want to create/use more than one partition on some devices; can't remember any details though.
5.
if your CompactFlash also fits in another device (say a camera, a media player), maybe you can have it formatted there.
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Hi , have a good
Is there is some kind of wireless router or wireless device "CAN SEND" long range wireless signal ,
P.S :
long range : 1 KM - 5 KM ,
Thank you !
I know nothing , I know nothing ...
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Your device needs to have an external antenna connection. Then make a search for "Directional Antenna".
But remember that the radiofrequency of unlicensed wireless routers (b,g,n) is the same as for a microwave oven (2450 GHz), which means that all humidity absorbs your radio output.
And on top of that, the maximum power (unlicensed) is 50 mw.
So, if you don't live in a desert, the actual range might be quite random.
"When did ignorance become a point of view" - Dilbert
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Thank you , for this answer , it's very helpful ,
I know nothing , I know nothing ...
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You're welcome
"When did ignorance become a point of view" - Dilbert
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I use long range wireless radios for electrical substation monitoring and control, and regularly manage 10 - 15 mile links with off the shelf equipment. It isn't cheap, but it's a lot cheaper than all the alternatives. GE, Motorola, Proxim, Ubiquiti are a few manufacturers that provide the equipment, with Motorola being the most expensive, and Ubiquiti the cheapest. Ideally, I'd use fiber, or even DSL, but fiber is too pricey, and DSL isn't an option; phone companies don't like bringing their copper lines into an electrical substation. It seems their switches have alergies to 25kV+ signals. 
Will Rogers never met me.
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If going into the zap room was the only concern, DSL terminating at am 802.11 box a safe distance outside the substation would protect their magic smoke.
3x12=36
2x12=24
1x12=12
0x12=18
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I know; for that matter, it wouldn't be too hard (or costly) to build an optoisolator and install it in the line just outside the fence. Heck, it's very likely an off the shelf item I can pick up from a catalog by now. I think they're just jealous that we can make much bigger smoke signals than they can.
Will Rogers never met me.
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Roger Wright wrote: it wouldn't be too hard (or costly) to build an optoisolator and install it in the line just outside the fence. Heck, it's very likely an off the shelf item I can pick up from a catalog by now.
I limited my suggestions to wifi because that wouldn't require them to trust you to know what you were doing. IF they did that in the 1st place the whole issue would be moot, and they'd trust you to do this without being prodded.
Roger Wright wrote: I think they're just jealous that we can make much bigger smoke signals than they can.
Probably. 
3x12=36
2x12=24
1x12=12
0x12=18
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lorenzodesigns wrote: my concern is will it handle the new video cards.. (pci express)
No.
The list for PCI Expansion gives you.
• 1x 64-bit 133/100/66MHz PCI-X (3.3V) slot
• 2x 64-bit 100/66MHz PCI-X (3.3V) slots
• 3x 32-bit 33MHz PCI (5V) slots
There's nothing about PCI-E there.
"When did ignorance become a point of view" - Dilbert
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My advice is to sell it and use the p5roceeds towards a new dual/quad core system. In addition to not supporting any halfway decent GPUs, it only supports P4 xeon's, so they're only about as fast a 2gig modern CPU but will draw either 95 or 165W each. You'll also need expensive ECC ram, so it's going to be a slow power hungry moneypit.
3x12=36
2x12=24
1x12=12
0x12=18
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Could someone explain what is and what for Smatp Domains(IIS6-> Default SMTP Virtual Server->Domains)?
I read here but didn't understood
Could you please explain me?
Thank you
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I agree; the description of Remote Domains is rather vague. But the description of a local domain is clear enough. You get one default local domain with IIS6, which your SMTP server considers its own. Any mail arriving addressed to that domain will be delivered to a mailbox on your server (if the username is a member of the domain), or returned to sender if the username is unknown. You can also alias the local default domain in order to accept incoming mail addressed to the alias domain. Remote domains are a bit different, but if I'm reading it correctly - and the way I'd expect to set it up - are domains which are not local, but which you want your SMTP server to handle. Most SMTP servers in private networks are configured to reject mail for any domains other than local domains, in order to avoid unwittingly forwarding spam.
Will Rogers never met me.
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Hi all...
I have a ThinkPad, T400 laptop with windows 7 professional 64 bit on it, which has built-in modem - ThinkPad Modem Adapter, which is attached to COM3.
Everything worked very well until I plugged some external modem (via USB), which was detected perfectly by windows, and attached to COM5. After I plugged the external modem sound from both of the modems disappeared.
I've searched in any place I could think about where to change modem's volume, tried to configure it with ATL[0-2] command, removed USB modem, removed internal modem, installed it once again - nothing, there is no sound. It does works, it dials the phone numbers, but without any single sound, and sound is what I need most of all!
Any ideas how can I fix it?
thanks in advance!
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