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During development of a USB device, I temporarily used Vendor ID=547 and Device Id=1002, since those were the defaults for the development kit I was using. I have since switched to using properly-registered IDs.
Unfortunately, a product I have purchased and would like to use (a chip programmer) uses the same IDs, and any time I plug it in Windows wants to attach my drivers rather than the proper drivers for the device. I can easily enough see what devices are 'installed' and uninstall them, but the next time I plug in the device it installs it with my drivers rather than prompting for the right ones.
What must I do to tell windows that 0547/1002 is NOT my device and I would like it to prompt for a .INF file (which could then load the proper drivers)?
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I have no clue to where windows caches the setting or files. Have you tried uninstalling your driver, purging the temporary files and removing any .INFs that match your description? Other than that, this is why default IDs are bad.
Cheers,
Sebastian
--
"If it was two men, the non-driver would have challenged the driver to simply crash through the gates. The macho image thing, you know." - Marc Clifton
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Since having written the earlier message, I've managed to delete the appropriate .INF files and pretty much convinced the system that my device doesn't exist under its old identity. I still can't get the new device to work, though. My guess is that it partially installed something in such a way as to get itself confused.
Sometime I'll reinstall the OS on this machine, and when I do I can fix things then.
In the mean time, I wonder how I should best contact/pester the device vendor. It seems that its .INF files contain both the default vendor/device id's and some other ones, but the device itself uses the default ones. Grrr....
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I have some old manufacturing equipment that has 3.5" floppy drives.
I am wanting to replace the floppy drives with something else like a USB stick. I
must use the FDD interface because of the limitations of the equipment.
Are there any available products already available?
If possible, I would like to access the storage over a network connection also.
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What do you know about the hardware/software in question? Do you need read/write access, or would read-only be sufficient? There exist SmartMedia-to-floppy interfaces which allow a SmartMedia card to be used as a very large (but still slow) floppy disk, but those unfortunately require the installation of special drivers. If you need something that physically looks to the rest of the system like a 3.5" drive, I would expect such a thing could probably be constructed with a small microcontroller, a CPLD, a flash chip, and some buttons and a display to switch disks. Sounds like that would be an interesting project; not particularly difficult, but I don't know if anyone's done it.
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That device looks interesting. I'm a little curious, though, how it would work with devices that don't use a DOS-compatible file system. Something like an Ensoniq DSK just has three sample-storage areas per disk; push 1, 2, or 3 to select the area to save/load. It's conceivable that it might use a file system, but I think it's far more likely that it just reads a fixed range of tracks based upon the button selected.
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If it's being honest about working almost anywhere I'd assume it emulates the device at a very low level... *IF*
It is a truth universally acknowledged that a zombie in possession of brains must be in want of more brains.
-- Pride and Prejudice and Zombies
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The file format used by the equipment is FAT. The disks written by the equipment can be read on a PC and vice versa.
The equipment can format a disk and then be used with a PC.
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Hi Guys
Just had this done. The floppy to usb converter is now available foronly 50USD+freight and can be shipped to any part of world. Its compatible with 1.44 mb floppy format and works fine in CNC / Knitting/weaving/Embroidery/ Yamaha Keyboards/Korg Keyboards and several otrher machines . If anyone needs the converter pls mail me at vishal@keindia.com or info@floppytousb.net
for more details about unit please visit floppytousb.net
Regards
Vishal.
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Hello,
I'm developing some client-server software, and the server side is running Linux, Postgresql and Python, the bottleneck will probably be the DB. The problem is, I don't know what sort of hardware to buy for my clients. Performance requirements are modest, but its reliability I'm worried about.
A DIY job with my local PC shop can get me a quad-core 12MB L2 cache Intel, 8GB DDR3 Kingston RAM, and 4x500GB SATA 7500rpm WD HDDs (software RAID 0+1) with a $150 power source, extra cooling and a better case (from Thermaltake), and a $400 UPS, all of this should make it more reliable, and it costs less than $2k. (I've yet to do any stress-testing, but that kind of hardware should be able to cope with quite a beating)
Then I looked at brand-name servers, like IBM X series, and Dells, and good God, the prices. If I want the same toys, I have to pay many times that amount. I understand that they have hot-swap, hardware RAID, and a nice badge, but what (else) on hell do they charge so much for? Is a Xeon with apparently the same performance specs as a normal Intel really worth a grand more? Dell must have gold-plated their keyboards, else I can't figure out why they charge ~70 bucks for a standard 104-key one, and a tape backup unit is around $700 
My test server is a dual-core Intel with 2GB DDR2 RAM and 2x500GB 7500rpm HDDs (software RAID 1), hosting a low-traffic website, email and my software, for less than $500 (no UPS) and it never missed a beat since I installed it half a year ago.
For a brand system with my performance specs (the quad-core set) I've seen quotes as high as 20 grand, so I must ask, CP folks: if you'd have to buy servers with roughly those specs, one for each customer, reliability is a huge concern, and higher server cost means less profit, would you pick DIY or brand name?
Thanks for the help! 
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Apart from substituting Hardware RAID, I'd steer well clear of Software RAID if reliability is a concern, which would add approx $100.
For your spec I would be tempted to go for a local builder, provided I was satisfied with their build quality/after sales service.
Henry Minute
Do not read medical books! You could die of a misprint. - Mark Twain
Girl: (staring) "Why do you need an icy cucumber?"
“I want to report a fraud. The government is lying to us all.”
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Thanks
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Its overkill.
No reason to be spending 2k on a startup server. You probably wont use anywhere near its limitations before it becomes obsolete
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This is an odd problem I've been having for about 2 years now. I was hoping some of you hardware gurus could help me out with it. Here's the issue:
Whenever my hard drive starts to get full, like as in less than 10% free space left, the screen begins to randomly black out for a few seconds every ten minutes or so. It blacks out, turns itself back on, and then blacks out again, a few minutes later, over and over. Annoying as hell of course, when you're trying to get work done.
Now, I *know* it's a result of the full hard drive, because this only ever happens when the hard drive is full and it is fixed when the hard drive is emptied again. I'd thought it was viruses in the past, since the problem was fixed as soon as the thing was reformatted. I'd also thought it was maybe an overheating issue, or a powersupply issue. But now I'm convinced that it's a hard drive space issue. Why would the thing work fine again, with the exact same hardware running, once Windows was re-installed?
My only guess is that it has something to do with the lack of virtual memory space taxing the RAM, and in turn taxing the graphics processes enough to black the whole thing out for a few moments every 5 to 10 minutes or so. It seems to be worse with memory intensive programs running in the foreground.
I'd like to get this thing figured out without having to delete half my programs and files, or reformatting yet again. Hopefully there's a solution.
(I have 1GB Ram. Win XP. AMD Sempron processor (3000+, 1.8 ghz). The hard drive is 150GB, with about 9GB free. The display adapter is a GeForce 7600 GS. All drivers and programs have been updated and virus/spyware scanned--clean. Please help.)
"Go to, I’ll no more on’t; it hath made me mad." - Hamlet
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I thing you have it all figured out. However, 9GB should be enough to hold a 2 GB swapfile or something like that. You should consider letting Windows handle the swapfile, if you don't already, and maybe defrag the HDD (with swapping disabled, of course). Linux has a clever solution for those problems: It uses a dedicated swap partition, so no file fragmentation ever happens. You could simulate that by moving your swapfile to a separate partition.
Good luck!
Cheers,
Sebastian
--
"If it was two men, the non-driver would have challenged the driver to simply crash through the gates. The macho image thing, you know." - Marc Clifton
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That's serious overkill. Killing the old swap, defragging, and creating a new non-resizable swapfile will accomplish the same thing without complicating your filesystem.
It is a truth universally acknowledged that a zombie in possession of brains must be in want of more brains.
-- Pride and Prejudice and Zombies
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I disagree. He has had the problem several times, and I think that warrants a special setup.
However, for most people, it really IS serious overkill.
Cheers,
Sebastian
--
"If it was two men, the non-driver would have challenged the driver to simply crash through the gates. The macho image thing, you know." - Marc Clifton
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How do you create a partition without reformatting?
"Go to, I’ll no more on’t; it hath made me mad." - Hamlet
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Depends on the Windows version.
On Vista, Computer Management is capable of shrinking an existing partition, and adding one in the empty space.
On older Windows, you would need a utility, such as Partition Magic (AFAIK does not exist for Vista).
In both cases, the problem will be your current partition is quite full and fragmented, you can only shrink a partition with Vista for as far as it topmost part is empty (don't expect that). And the Windows defragmenter is crap, it does hardly move the files to the lower parts of a partition, all it does is concatenate file fragments. Again Partition Magic should solve that.
Whatever solution, be prepared to spend a couple hours.
Luc Pattyn [Forum Guidelines] [My Articles]
DISCLAIMER: this message may have been modified by others; it may no longer reflect what I intended, and may contain bad advice; use at your own risk and with extreme care.
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JKDefrag should take care of the fragmenting, any better PartEd-containing LiveCD (like Knoppix) should be able to do the resizing.
However, resizing is a delicate thing. It might fail, and leave you with no data, so you should backup you data before attempting to resize.
I've never had ntfs-resize fully fail on me. However, I've had my share of problems with it: I had to write down the new partitioning information and perform the repartitioning in GPartEd TWICE. Otherwise, there would be trouble with the partition's size information. Happened on all Dell-Laptops I've ever resized partitions on.
Just a suggestion for the original poster...
Cheers,
Sebastian
--
"If it was two men, the non-driver would have challenged the driver to simply crash through the gates. The macho image thing, you know." - Marc Clifton
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Okay, my theory is shot all to crap now. I wound up reformatting my hard drive due to some other on-going issues that I was tired of fighting with. Once everything was reinstalled, it started flashing black and coming back on again while running one of the two programs I had installed, other than the operating system and all my device drivers. There's now 127 GB free on the HD, and the virtual memory is coming off of it's own dedicated 5GB partition.
Strangely enough, the problem only occurs on certain programs. Even on resource intensive games like Sims3, it works fine. On the other program, Terragen2, it cuts out on virtually every click.
So basically I'm at a loss. It must be a hardware issue, with either the RAM sticks or the memory card.
Oh, I also have EI installed, and for some reason it takes 35 seconds from the time I open the browser to the time it loads Google. I know. I timed it. I have no idea what's going on there, on a brand new OS install. Surely there's no viruses or spyware already. 
"Go to, I’ll no more on’t; it hath made me mad." - Hamlet
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Yup. It's the RAM. I checked the mem usage of Terragen 2, and there was a huge amount of objects loaded. Once I deleted the population of objects, it quit blacking out. Go figure.
So how do I fix it?
"Go to, I’ll no more on’t; it hath made me mad." - Hamlet
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What is your OS? how much RAM is present?
Is your memory running low?
Was there a lot of disk activity, i.e. memory being swapped out to the page file?
Check Task Manager, Performance, Physical Memory, Free
if low, and you are below the max RAM your system could hold, add 1 or 2 GB.
If that is not possible, try freeing some memory by terminating/not starting apps & tools you don't need at the moment; reduce file system caching; ...
Luc Pattyn [Forum Guidelines] [My Articles]
DISCLAIMER: this message may have been modified by others; it may no longer reflect what I intended, and may contain bad advice; use at your own risk and with extreme care.
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