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trønderen wrote: For the 3.5" floppies: For future proofing, I bought a USB reader.
When my previous employer shut down I salvaged a USB floppy drive from the laptop bag one of our salesguys was using. I didn't even know at the time they existed. Tried it with a few floppies I still had - worked fine.
It's been in a drawer since (and given how long I've been at my current employer, that must be close to 20 years now). I think I've used it exactly once, and that was probably to create a .flp file (think .ISO but for diskettes).
I checked on Amazon a while ago - they're still out there (the USB readers, that is).
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I bought a pair of Merrell Moab 3 waterproof boots 13 months ago
and the sole around the toe area is spiting from the boot
OK Merrell said 12 months for return
I have another pair that is 8 years old that the Vibram sole is warn flat gone
Merrell told me they would give me a 30% discount
Just select the item I want and respond to an email they sent me
The issue is I can not make a purchase on the website without a phone number
I have suggested I am prepared to take this to court
My step daughter sued 3M for damaging the water supply in the US and other countries
YES the law firm team won
Merrell told me to ask a friend or neighbor for a phone number!
Any one what to loan me a phone number ?
OR should I just make up a phone number ?
Issue my real phone number is more than likely linked to my Chase Credit Card
OR just shut up and stop being a grumpy OLD man
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Google Voice
>64
It’s weird being the same age as old people. Live every day like it is your last; one day, it will be.
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Choroid wrote: My step daughter sued 3M for damaging the water supply in the US and other countries
YES the law firm team won
Seems unlikely. First of course would be what is known as 'standing'.
Now perhaps she was part of a class action suit in the US. Or she is some participant in a government entity, which is the most recent one I found when searching.
But I doubt you can do the same for a retail product unless you can find a warranty that says they will last longer than 12 months. And then find a law firm willing to front you as the primary in a class action lawsuit. Expect probably 10 years before you get anything from that though.
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jschell wrote: ... class action lawsuit. Expect probably 10 years before you get anything from that though.
And most of what you get will be eaten up by lawyer's fees.
Freedom is the freedom to say that two plus two make four. If that is granted, all else follows.
-- 6079 Smith W.
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Tell me about Lawyer Fee's
My father remarried he had a will that was written when he was married to my mother
before her death
New wife's family got my father to write a new will at the time he was failing
from Alzheimer and I was written out of the will
When he died in December it was the following year in April when I was notified of his death my child hood home in Ohio was in my name my father died in California
$25,000.00 later I retained the house and property
some of the investment accounts real killer they tried to forge my signature on
a life insurance policy
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Choroid wrote: New wife's family got my father to write a new will at the time he was failing
from Alzheimer...they tried to forge my signature on
That is all criminal rather than civil. So you should file a compliant.
With a brief google by me also seems that California law means that one cannot profit from a criminal activity which this would apply if convicted.
And after conviction, even a for a minor charge, I suspect you can file a civil suit to recoup monetary losses that you paid while protecting yourself.
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Daniel Pfeffer wrote: And most of what you get will be eaten up by lawyer's fees.
Sort of.
First of course the OP is talking about a pair of boots.
But, as far as I know, as the primary in a class action one gets quite a bit of the judgement. Lots to the lawyers, but more than just what a pair of boots are.
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You are correct collaboration with the Feds
I agree just rattled my cage asking me to use someone else's phone number
and demanding a phone number to make a purchase
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Choroid wrote: I have suggested I am prepared to take this to court
If you are determined to sue, AND the sum is worth your time and effort, you may wish to try small claims court. Just remember that going to Law has costs above the financial. Even if you win, you may lose when your time, effort, and aggravation are taken into account.
Choroid wrote: Issue my real phone number is more than likely linked to my Chase Credit Card
OR just shut up and stop being a grumpy OLD man
They probably want it so they can send you spam texts. Just block any that you receive.
Your credit card is presumably linked to your phone number (so the company can contact you in the case of possible fraud). Even if you use your credit card to pay your phone bill, that information should not be stored by the phone company. In any case, if the phone or the credit card companies' billing records are hacked, you have bigger problems than a bit of spam...
Freedom is the freedom to say that two plus two make four. If that is granted, all else follows.
-- 6079 Smith W.
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Been down that road Amazon and Chase got hacked and my phone number
for my Credit Card went along for the ride
I exceeded the number of blocked phone numbers permitted on the phone
That is why no more phone numbers
Verizon has the phone number not sure what they do with it
take care and stay safe Daniel
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How hard is it to get a "burner" phone in your locality?
Here I could walk into a shop, grab a cheapie that comes with prepaid SIM and a number. No ID required.
Or get a SIM-only deal so I don't have to ditch the handset.
Software rusts. Simon Stephenson, ca 1994. So does this signature. me, 2012
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I have some old phones one was tied to Verizon
can I buy a sim card only and install that in the phone
OR will I need a Verizon Plan ? Or use the prepaid plan ?
Thanks for the reply
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Choroid wrote: my real phone number is more than likely linked to my Chase Credit Card
So what?
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I agree it should not be an issue except
I bought a refrigerator from Home Depot 3 month ago
and because I gave them a bogus phone number my credit card was not accepted
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Choroid wrote: I gave them a bogus phone number my credit card was not accepted
You win some, you lose some. 
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I also hold high opinions about the quality of KNOWLEDGE of this forum...
( monetary gifts optional / beer OK )
I am an OF who lost the LAST ignition working key... end of story.
My "friend" mentioned $4000 "computer" THEY (?) use to solve the missing key problem ...
This "computer" connect to the vehicle via OBD hardware, EVERY car is E/W.
Would it be too high of a goal to learn
everything I always wanted to know HOW to use (PROGRAM !) OBD
to "program the responder ignition key "
AND
is (currently ?) a guarded secret limited to " only need to know " dealership etc. "
" there must be a pony here somewhere ..."
How about starting with "OBD specification " ?
Cheers
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Well, I know a (very) little about this which could provide an idea towards the next step.
This is not the solution you are looking for but it may provide insight as to possibility or not.
Here's my experience.
I had an old Chevy Equinox which we had lost the extra fob and key for.
Dealer wanted $300 for new key.
Along comes Amazon, years later (after only having one key for a long time) which sells the extra uncut keys which contain the programmable part of the key.
I went to Lowes and they cut the key for FREE. Wow!
I then went to the car and put the original key (I know you don't have this) in, turned to accessory or something, then tapped the gas pedal four times then take out original.
After that I put the new cut key (as yet unprogrammed) into the ignition and followed some similar ritual (turned to accessory & then pumped gas pedal 4 times) and voila! The new key was programmed.
Now, what I learned was that it was programmed from the old key sitting there. The old key apparently had to be "in range" to the new one when you do this.
But think about how simple that was (took about 5 minutes) and the Dealer, of course wanted $300.
So terrible.
Anyways, maybe this tells you something more about whether or not what you're thinking is possible.
It may at least give you some ideas.
I'm sorry I don't have more to help you with. Good luck!
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I recently watched a video where a mechanic hooked up a laptop and could diagnose cold-starting issues. (no signal to the coils when air temperature is below 20F degrees) The guy does a great job diagnosing the problem.
Anyhow, he replaced the ECU and had to reprogram the keys. I just looked it back up.
Dealer Couldn't fix it...for 5 YEARS!! (Nissan No-Start when COLD) - YouTube[^]
"Go forth into the source" - Neal Morse
"Hope is contagious"
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Great video - thanks! I'm looking into the same product he is using for my new car. For every car I've ever owned, I purchased the shop manual; not the trash sold by Chilton or Haynes, but the real manual used by the dealer. Lately the manuals have been on CDs rather than printed, but the cost has been about the same, around $250US. This latest car, a Nissan Rogue, is a problem, as they no longer will sell the manual but will only allow me to subscribe to an online version of it. I wouldn't mind that but they now want to charge me almost $1000 a year to access it!
This Alldata solution is about $60 a year, and is a far better product from what I can see.
Will Rogers never met me.
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UK/EU based reply. It's also angled towards older cars.
There are plenty of services that can make a new key for a car whether you have the original or not (I had to have a new one done a year or so ago). It's usually a bloke with an van, a key cutting machine and an electronic device to do the key programming. It can't be that expensive to get setup since whilst it's not cheap to get a new key made, nor does the guy turn up with gold teeth and a highly customised Mercedes van (it'll be an old beat-up van and he'll look like he buys too many lottery scratch cards in the hope of getting rich some day).
Search Google for car key programming machine and see what turns up. I'm guessing your friends $4000 "computer" is a professional version one of these. There are cheap consumer versions available but I'd have no idea about the reliability. It's a fairly precarious thing to do at the best of times. No-one will guarantee you success since they see random inexplicable failures, even with the same model/year that worked with another customer yesterday.
--> Whether you can replicate that with off the shelf hardware and some code is an interesting question. See below for what ChatGPT thinks. Some bits sound easy and then the other bits sound ... challenging. If we're talking newer cars with more modern security measures then that will make it an order of magnitude more difficult.
IIRC the versions used by dealerships reprogram the immobiliser code that the car will recognise as well as program the keys, which is why they always want to change all the locks on the car as well as give you a new key (whereas the guy in the van only creates a new key that matches the existing immobiliser codes). I'm guessing the stated reason is for security (so that the old keys won't work anymore) and that the unstated reason is that it's a lot more profitable.
OBD specs require the OBD to output certain information and third party devices that conform to the spec. can access that information. However it's only basic info, usually only that required by regulations. The OEM uses the same OBD connection to access a lot more information (much more) and somewhere in there you will find the immobiliser codes, so not only would you need a key programming device you'd also need access to the device the OEM uses to connect to the OBD - unless you have a friend in a dealership then getting access to one of these is like getting access to the system used by the bank to lock its vaults.
--> Personally, I would forget this idea and stick to programming new keys.
ChatGPT
Hardware Components:
- Microcontroller or Single-Board Computer (SBC): You’ll need a microcontroller (such as Arduino, Raspberry Pi, or ESP32) or an SBC (like Raspberry Pi) to interface with the car’s OBD port and communicate with the vehicle’s computer.
- Transceiver Module: A transceiver (e.g., ELM327) is essential for OBD-II communication. It converts serial data to OBD-II protocol and vice versa.
- Key Programmer Circuit: Design a circuit that can read/write data from/to the car’s immobilizer system. This may involve EEPROMs, microcontrollers, and other components.
- Power Supply: Provide a stable power source for your device.
Software Development:
- OBD-II Communication: Write code to communicate with the vehicle’s OBD-II system. You’ll need to understand the relevant protocols (e.g., ISO 9141-2, ISO 14230-4, ISO 15765-4).
- Security Algorithms: Implement security algorithms used by car manufacturers (e.g., rolling codes, challenge-response authentication).
- Key Programming Logic: Develop code to program new keys, sync them with the immobilizer, and handle keyless entry functions.
Mike
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Don't know what has happened but clicking on or pressing the Windows key doesn't pop open the apps menu, similarly clicking on the status bar speaker icon(or any of them) doesn't pop up the volume slider, I did have the usual Windows updates failure this morning where it tries to apply the updates,fails, and then undoes updates . Anyone had this ?
In a closed society where everybody's guilty, the only crime is getting caught. In a world of thieves, the only final sin is stupidity. - Hunter S Thompson - RIP
modified yesterday.
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Sounds like Windows Explorer in Zombie Mode.
The solution is to kill the explorer.exe process via Task Manager.
Windows explorer should restart automatically. If not, <Windows key> + <R> (Run) should help.
I did not have issues with the latest Windows updates.
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Thanks for your reply, explorer.exe is not shown in Task Manager but I started it from run - no change I'm afraid
In a closed society where everybody's guilty, the only crime is getting caught. In a world of thieves, the only final sin is stupidity. - Hunter S Thompson - RIP
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There need to be an Explorer in Taskmanager, Tab Details.
Close all programs, including all visible explorers.
Kill the explorer in Taskmanager->Details. If you kill it desktop disapears and you get a blank screen.
Type Ctrl&Alt&Delete and choose 'Taskmanager'
In Taskmanager choose 'File -> Run new task', type in explorer to run explorer.
Desktop should now be back.
modified yesterday.
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